Florida boy 1984 Sentra Diesel 1.7L

[bmktw2]

Hello people,
here's pix of my Sentro.




140k miles
I drove it 350 miles home but its got a leaky injector pump and the glow plugs dont run right...
I want to fix her up. I love this car!
I need new motor mounts, injector pump, and the Glow Plugs dont work.
I changed the oil and filter, put a new master cyl, did the rear brake cylnders and shoes plus changed some little radiator hoses under the injection pump. The car wont crank unless I ground the glow plug relay. Then when I drive it the glow plug module on the firewall overheats and smokes. What do ya'll think?

[bmktw2]

I really want to get her back on the road as a daily driver.

[bmktw2]

does anyone know where I can find a rebuild kit for the injection pump? I cant find one anywhere.
Also I wish I knew how the glow plugs work... Is there a good service manual ya'll can recommend?

[plenzen]

Perhaps Al will see this post and jump in. He had one of these little guys that was just plain wore out, but became pretty familiar with it and all it's ??????? quirks? (for lack of a better term) . As for your injector pump. I would suggest you have to remove it and send it to a Diesel Injector Repair depot. It is a specialized field to do this kind of work and special tools and equipment along with training etc. is required to do it correctly. The pump I would think needs seals because the ULSD fuel had pooched the OE seals and the new ones will be made of Viteon (spelling) and that issue should be resolved.
The fuel pump service is expensive so I would suggest before throwing any $$$'s at that to get the rest of it so it's working and that it starts etc. Glow plugs and all that. You will get a good idea at that time if it's worth the $$$'s for the pump service.

Looks like a pretty clean little ride and, if all else is made to work, and the motor has lots of compression etc. then will be probably be worth it.

IMHO that is.

Paul

[bmktw2]

thanks for the input Paul.

Is the pump a Bosch brand? Do you know if I could find a model number or anyway to specify which pump it exactly is

[bmktw2]

I wonder how you do a compression test on this thing

[plenzen]

If you search this site you will find the procedure and the tools required. Long story short you remove a glow plug and use a suitable compression tester and adapter that threads into the glow plug hole. There are a couple guys on here that have the tools and will lend them to you with proper deposit etc.

HTH

Paul

[plenzen]

The fuel pump will most likely be a Kiki and from the looks of it a VE style. There may be a bit of drama involved to remove it and I am not certain on this little guy how exactly that goes. You may want to find a Shop Manual for it on ebay or put a request on this forum ( peddle/procure) that you are looking for one.
EDIT:
There will most likely be a tag on the fuel plump with model and serial number on it. Your fuel injection place will be a good resource for "Bits and bites" for your fuel system and all that,,,,,,,,,,,, or at least I would think they would be.

Paul

[asavage]

My thread on my Sentra CD17 is here.

The generic Nissan diesel compression testing thread is here. The std Snap-On kit works, no special fabricated adaptor necessary, AFAICR.

Rebuilding the IP is not for the shade-tree mechanic. Requires too many special tools, and too much specialized knowledge. If it's leaking, it is usually from one of three places: front shaft seal (can be replaced by you), top cover (not recommended to do this one at home, but *can* be done), or the o-ring between the cast steel distributor housing and the main aluminum housing (pretty much can't do yourself, unless you are *very, very* careful).

If the front seal is leaking, the fuel will ruin the belt eventually. Fortunately, on the CD17, that belt drives from the back of the camshaft to the IP only, so no engine damage will result from that belt stripping, unlike other OHC diesels.



See this post for a screaming deal on the more-important timing belt.

[bmktw2]

Al,
I'm guessing its the o-ring between the cast steel distributor housing and the main aluminum housing thats leaking....
I'm going to work on the car slowly and find out some more... I wish there was a repair or service manual for this bucket. Would make it easier

[Carimbo]

You can replace that large dist. head O-ring as long as you have access all around the dist. head.

1. Clean the area well.

2. Disconnect injector lines from the check valves.

3. Wrap duct tape radially around the outer

3. Loosen the four screws that clamp the distributor head to the IP body. Loosen them EQUALLY in SMALL increments, say 1/4 turn each, in cross order, each time. Loosen them enough so you get access to the o-ring.

[Carimbo]

You can replace that large dist. head O-ring as long as you have access all around the dist. head.

1. Clean the area well.

2. Disconnect injector lines from the check valves. Disconnect any other brackets that would impede partial removal (approx. 1/4 inch) of the distributor head.

3. Wrap duct tape radially around the outer surface of the distributor head. This will help keep the new o-ring clean when you roll it over the dist. head into position.

4. Loosen the four screws that clamp the distributor head to the IP body. Loosen them EQUALLY in SMALL increments, say 1/4 turn each, in cross order, each time. Loosen them enough so you get access to the o-ring.

5. Carefully cut the existing O-ring and remove it. Careful not to nick the sealing surfaces. You can pull the o-ring away from the slot with a curved pick or scribe to have better access to cut it.

6. Lubricate the new o-ring (Bosch service center recommends STP) and work it onto the outside of the distributor head, that you already covered with tape.

7. Roll the new o-ring over the dist. head into position trying not to let it get twisted.

8. Tighten the dist. head clamping screws, cross-pattern, in small increments. Important to keep the dist. head perfectly aligned w/ the IP body since the piston is in the cylinder milled into the dist head; these are machined to very fine tolerance. Tightening torque is pretty low-- the o-ring is what does the sealing here.

9. Reconnect the brackets and injector lines.

10. May have to bleed the injector lines before car starts.

This worked for me, although I had my IP on the bench. But it can work on-car if you have access and are are able to clean the area. The only thing I did different is that I did not use the duct tape; someone suggested that to me after I had buttoned it all back up.

[bmktw2]

some of u might be wondering about my sentra so i thoight i would post an update on my car.
its sitting in the garage right now. i found a place to rebuild the injector pump and so im just waiting for my toyota truck engine swap to get done then im pulling the injector pump from the nissan to get rebuilt.
she will be running again soon