It's not exactly the recommended wt but it's rated API ci-4 plus, ci-4, ch-4, cg-4, cf-4/sl.
Buy one gallon, 2nd gallon free, I ended up paying $9.24 for 2 gallons, works out to what?, $1.15/qt?
Till 6 Jan 2006.
Castrol Tection Extra 15W-40 On Sale at Schucks
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Should be fine. CI-4 is the latest API spec, IIRC. 15W40 is a good grade for most climates for diesels of that vintage -- it's what I've got in mine right now.
Oil brand choice is like a religion to many folks, I try not to get too involved. The difference between a "bad" oil and a "good" oil these days is a lot less than in years past, because almost all refiners have gone away from solvent dewaxing of crude oil, to isodewaxing and hydrotreating (a process pioneered by Chevron, BTW). With that refining process, the major difference in mineral oils is the additives package. One could do worse than Castrol.
If you change your oil/filter on schedule, there is almost no difference between a bargain oil and a premium oil. However, if you try to double or triple your OCI (Oil Change Interval), then even small differences in oils can lead to large differences in suspended soot, TBN level, and VI sheardown to base oil.
Premium oils greatly exceed the API classification specification. Does your engine need oil that greatly exceeds the API class. spec? No, the mfgr will honor their warranty if you use oil that merely meets the required spec. The way I look at it, even premium oil's cost is a lot cheaper than any other oil-related repair I would have to do, so I consider premium oil's add'l cost in the category of insurance or something like that -- I think that I'm buying add'l runtime etc. In the past, this may have even made economic sense, but what if you extend the useful life of the engine another 150k by very strict OCI adherence and premium oil use? The rest of the car will probably fall apart! So you've got a nice-running high-miles engine in a car that becomes less and less viable to repair. The mfgrs have the vehicle lifecycle down to a fine art. But I'm planning on reusing my powerplant in other projects in the future, even after the body and associated parts is scrapped. For me, premium oil makes economic sense too.
Bottom Line: The Castrol 15W40 is fine for everyday use. Just change it on time, that's the biggest variable in the oil change equation, not the brand of oil.
Oil brand choice is like a religion to many folks, I try not to get too involved. The difference between a "bad" oil and a "good" oil these days is a lot less than in years past, because almost all refiners have gone away from solvent dewaxing of crude oil, to isodewaxing and hydrotreating (a process pioneered by Chevron, BTW). With that refining process, the major difference in mineral oils is the additives package. One could do worse than Castrol.
If you change your oil/filter on schedule, there is almost no difference between a bargain oil and a premium oil. However, if you try to double or triple your OCI (Oil Change Interval), then even small differences in oils can lead to large differences in suspended soot, TBN level, and VI sheardown to base oil.
Premium oils greatly exceed the API classification specification. Does your engine need oil that greatly exceeds the API class. spec? No, the mfgr will honor their warranty if you use oil that merely meets the required spec. The way I look at it, even premium oil's cost is a lot cheaper than any other oil-related repair I would have to do, so I consider premium oil's add'l cost in the category of insurance or something like that -- I think that I'm buying add'l runtime etc. In the past, this may have even made economic sense, but what if you extend the useful life of the engine another 150k by very strict OCI adherence and premium oil use? The rest of the car will probably fall apart! So you've got a nice-running high-miles engine in a car that becomes less and less viable to repair. The mfgrs have the vehicle lifecycle down to a fine art. But I'm planning on reusing my powerplant in other projects in the future, even after the body and associated parts is scrapped. For me, premium oil makes economic sense too.
Bottom Line: The Castrol 15W40 is fine for everyday use. Just change it on time, that's the biggest variable in the oil change equation, not the brand of oil.
Regards,
Al S.
1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.
Al S.
1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.
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What's the general feeling about the Rotella T synthetic oil? I have been using this in just about everything, most because there's only one place in Des Moines that carries the Delvac 1 and I haven't gone in yet.
I'm not trying to start any wars here...but commentary
thanks
Steve A
I'm not trying to start any wars here...but commentary
thanks
Steve A
97 Jetta TDI, 86 VW Golf D
89 VW Fox diesel, 92 MB 300SD W140
gir - won't the sploding hurt?
zim - silence!
89 VW Fox diesel, 92 MB 300SD W140
gir - won't the sploding hurt?
zim - silence!
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