Just got a 1986 Nissan Sentra CD17 Diesel. Help.

CD-powered vehicles, specifically the Sentra, but also retrofits and swaps.

Moderators: plenzen, Nissan_Ranger

plenzen
Posts: 867
Joined: 12 years ago
Location: Cochrane Alberta Canada

#16

Post by plenzen » 6 years ago

I believe the IP timing belt is ??????? "challenging" IIRC

Not sure about idler brgs etc either. ( availability)

As previously stated Al (asavage) is a good "go to" guy for info if you cant find what your looking for through "search" on here.

Enjoy !

P
Retired Pauly
Problem with being retired is that you never get a day off.
1987 D21-J SD25 KC
KJLGD21FN

bleach
Posts: 9
Joined: 6 years ago
Location: Kelowna, BC

#17

Post by bleach » 6 years ago

Lordco Said they have one, and rock auto got one or three. How ever the tensors for the IP I can't find. so I am hoping the one on the timing side will work.

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asavage
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#18

Post by asavage » 6 years ago

plenzen wrote:As for the copper washers. "Annealing" them is a good course to follow.

Heating them to cherry red with a propane torch ( propane will not melt copper ) and then letting them air cool or plunging them into cold water is actually the best way to perform this task.
Copper annealing is the opposite from carbon steel: cool as quickly as you can to anneal copper. Air cooling will not achieve enough malleability to do the job for injector seals.
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.

Nissan_Ranger
Posts: 264
Joined: 13 years ago
Location: Canada

#19

Post by Nissan_Ranger » 6 years ago

Air cooling is actually enough to soften copper; water does make it even softer. It is true that a regular propane torch won't melt copper, BUT it can cause oxidation crusts to form which are not desirable. Annealing should be done in subdued light and the copper need only be brought to dull dark red before plunging into water.

One important thing to remember is to take a little off the outside circumference of the washer with a fine file because the washer will spread out some each time it is annealed and re-used. This is especially important if the washer was already a little tight to get out of the injector hole. Failure to trim *will* cause such a washer to be swaged into the bottom of the injector hole making future removal extremely difficult. Use a file card to keep the file from clogging.

New washers, and especially small ones, should be annealed before use as they are manufactured by a punching process which does a dandy job of instantly hardening them and manufacturers are too cheap to anneal them after making them.

N_R
The old 'six gun' was as popular as the cell phone in its time and just as annoying when it went off in the Theater.

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