Help nissan 720 sd22 diesel

[Raptor6717]

OK, I used the hair dryer and it cranked with that. I have ordered some glow plugs. I have a spare alternator I can use also. I checked the main wires and it is putting out no voltage.

I have an issue with the key. The key will not shut off the engine. It does everything except that. Is this the injection pump controller or the ignition switch?

And I am going to rob parts off the other truck. Will an 81 datsun grill fit on an 83 nissan?

[waynosworld]

OK, you say it will not shut off the engine, my first question is when the engine is off(not running), is the injection pump arm in the off position or the run position?

Another thing I would mention, you have bought new glow plugs, did you test your old ones, I ask because there is a chance that your old used glow plugs are better parts than the new ones you can buy, if your old ones work when tested use them, they do not sell the good ones anymore.

You say it cranked with the hair drier, does this mean it ran/started/tried to start sooner/quicker?

The grill can be switched out to the 1983 grill as long as you use all the sheet metal for that grill, you will also likely have to put the headlight buckets in the lower position also, later models the headlights are around an inch lower, 1981 on all the holes are in the sheet metal for all the years parts, 1980 only has the holes for the higher position for the headlights/buckets.

this is the truck/engine that does not start after sitting all night, there has to be a leak somewhere letting the fuel drain back to the tank

[plenzen]

If I understand his post correctly it sounds like it may have started with the hair dryer but he did say:

"I checked the main wires and it is putting out no voltage.

No voltage to the glow plugs means it wont start without them, especially on a cold soak over night.

Your right about the glow plugs as the new ones are pretty fragile.

I had the Delphi ones that were pretty robust. ( HDS283)

I might suggest looking for the CN 433 Marine Nissan version of the plugs.
They were bullet proof.
No timers on the Marine version. Just a push button in the wheel house with a coil under a heat shield that you waited till it glowed red and then started. A lot of people would keep the button pushed after it started to help it idle a bit smoother.

[Raptor6717]

I meant the alternator is producing no voltage.

The truck will not automatically pull back to the off position when the ignition is turned off. There is a lever added so I can manually do it.

Yeah, I think the fuel lines are too old, the 2nd time I tried to start it with the drier it would not fire, but it did the first time. I had to bleed the injectors even though I had started it a few days prior. The truck will not start unless I spray ether, but I didn't have to use it when I used the hair drier.

I need some glow plugs anyway, the other sd22 engine doesn't have any, and I need to cover up the holes

[waynosworld]

This is the thing about the injection pump controller that I am wondering about, I suspect it is in the run position all the time, I suspect that arm does not move at all, it is always in the run position, therefore it is never in the richer start position either.
Yes you pull on the choke cable to kill the engine, but there is enough movement in the assembly to pull it to the off position with a cable or with your finger with the injection pump being in the run position, I am thinking the injection pump controller and/or DPC module are not working at all.

I do not recall if this has been asked, does this diesel engine have a VE type injection pump or an inline injection pump, I could not tell in the photo of the engine compartment.

Do you have the fusible links and are they good?

You asked about replacing the alternator earlier, first I would make sure the big white wire has power(12V) in post 26 of at the fusible link and t the alternator, sometimes that plug on the alternator looks connected but is not or something is not plugged in before the alternator, as I said before my fusible link connector is melted in my 720 diesel dually, I sometimes have to wiggle the connector at the battery post or squeeze the connections at the post, my fusible links are good, but the connections are very old and been wiggled so many times they get loose and contact is lost, I cannot buy new fusible links.

[Raptor6717]

The thing is I hear the controller move from start position after I stop cranking for a few seconds.

If the connectors are fusible links next to the battery then yes.

It is the Kiki inline pump

[waynosworld]

If you disconnect the oil sender wire from the sender when you turn the key on it should move to the run position from the off position, you should hear it, but if the injection pump controller arm is not connected will still hear it move, this is why I want to see the injection arm move with my eyes, but you have had it running already.

One of the signs of a wore out VE type injection pump is the engine will not start right away after sitting over night, the fuel back flows from the injection pump back to the tank, so then it takes a while for the engine to start, what I temporarily did on my wore out pump was put an electric fuel pump near the tank, this fixed the starting issue, but the pump is still wore out, but by that time I figured out how to make a turbocharger work on an inline injection pump and I lost interest in the VE type injection pumps.

When you have had it running did it run/idle smooth?

I would prime the whole thing and look for a leak, have you replaced the spin on fuel filter, how exactly did you do that, did you fill the fuel filter with fuel before putting it in position?

[Raptor6717]

Would it work the same for inline injection pumps? Do they wear out like ve's?

It runs rough and smokes, it definitely has a miss when cold. I think it does have compression on all four. It runs better once it warms up, but still smokes a little. It runs good enough to go 55 mph in 5th gear.

I have never replaced the spin on filter, and this truck has a pre filter on the firewall.

When I prime it, I am getting no leaks except whenever I pump the primer and fuel comes out of the bottom of it. This is only when the pump is fully primed. I don't know why it does that, the other truck does it too.

[waynosworld]

I have read that inline injection pumps last a lot longer than the VE type injection pumps, but others on here disagree.

I have seen rebuilt VE type injection pumps for sale on ebay several times, I bought one myself to replace my worn out VE type injection pump, at night the fuel would drain back into the tank and it would not start in the morning without turning it over an extended period of time, I do not like turning it over that long as it makes the starter too hot and they go bad much faster, I believe I mentioned putting a fuel pump near the tank to stop the draining back issue, and even if it still drained back the fuel pump would fill the lines/VE type injection pump and it would start more normally, but I did not chase the VE injection pump issues because I figured out how to turbocharge the inline injection pump, I had the VE type injection pump/engine installed and running, but removed the SD22 rebuilt engine and installed the SD25 used engine, it is there to this day, the 1980 Datsun 720 runs and drives fine with the turbocharged SD25 engine, but I daily drive my 1969 Datsun 521 kingcab SD25 turbodiesel truck everyday.

Your #38 post that you mention "it runs rough and smokes makes me think glow plug issue, yes it will run rough and smoke when it is cold outside, but mine quits smoking fairly quickly, but I have an air heater installed that I use when it is below 55 degrees just to help it run cleaner(less smoke), the neighbors and people I don't know in parking lots don't like clouds of smoke, I consider this a lot if smoke, it got overheated and has never been the same, it is a parts engine to me now, SD25 parts are hard to find.



I would have changed all filters when I decided to try and start an engine that has sat so long, but that is me.

[plenzen]

The biggest cause of wear for the VE pump was dirty/contaminated fuel. (water, etc.)
As it used fuel to lubricate and cool the pump, clean fuel was more critical for it than the inline pump that used engine oil to lube/cool making it more robust for sure.

The VE pump was widely used back in the day. (VW,Audi,Cummins.Pugeot,Toyota,Nissan,Mitsubishi etc. )

The introduction of ULSD was the beginning of the demise of the VE pump as well and you had to/should use an additive (Power service, Stanadyne, etc) just to make sure the " mandated additive package" within the ULSD was sufficient.

Agree with GP issue as even if 1 of them is out it will be very difficult to start even on a 70 degree day after a cold soak.
A long extended crank time will just wash the cylinders down and diminish some of the compression as well making it even harder to go.

[Raptor6717]

Good news and bad news. I replaced the glow plugs. When we were changing them, one of the prongs for the glow harness had broken off, and it was unlikely it stayed connected. We fixed this, and none of the glow plugs had the ends blown off. Someone had been there before and only replaced the two rear ones. After we replaced them, we had intermittent power loss to the glow plugs. But when it did have power, I cranked it and it started without ether and it ran flawlessly and didn't miss a bit. What would cause this? It also has a manual glow plug button.

[plenzen]

That is good news

Is there a relay connected to the push button for the GP's ? ?

I would suspect that the relay is either failing or not heavy enough to carry the load, or the wires to the relay or loose or too light to carry the load.

I really want to repeat here to not use ether to start this engine.
Air heater or something less volatile. Some people used WD40

I just used heat/hot air. On the cold nights ( -10C and below) block heater

[waynosworld]

plenzen post below

That is good news

Is there a relay connected to the push button for the GP's ? ?

I would suspect that the relay is either failing or not heavy enough to carry the load, or the wires to the relay or loose or too light to carry the load.

I really want to repeat here to not use ether to start this engine.
Air heater or something less volatile. Some people used WD40

I just used heat/hot air. On the cold nights ( -10C and below) block heater



This post above is important, it says most everything one needs to know.

Now you know why I was so insistent about testing the glow plugs, do not throw away your old glow plugs until you test them and can say it does not work, if they turn orange/yellow they are likely good, possibly better than what you replaced them with as they do not make the good ones anymore.

Good news and bad news. I replaced the glow plugs. When we were changing them, one of the prongs for the glow harness had broken off, and it was unlikely it stayed connected. We fixed this, and none of the glow plugs had the ends blown off. Someone had been there before and only replaced the two rear ones. After we replaced them, we had intermittent power loss to the glow plugs. But when it did have power, I cranked it and it started without ether and it ran flawlessly and didn't miss a bit. What would cause this? It also has a manual glow plug button.

[waynosworld]

Do you have a glow plug relay?

Do you have the glow plug box on the passenger side kick panel?

Do you have the DPC module?

Good news and bad news. I replaced the glow plugs. When we were changing them, one of the prongs for the glow harness had broken off, and it was unlikely it stayed connected. We fixed this, and none of the glow plugs had the ends blown off. Someone had been there before and only replaced the two rear ones. After we replaced them, we had intermittent power loss to the glow plugs. But when it did have power, I cranked it and it started without ether and it ran flawlessly and didn't miss a bit. What would cause this? It also has a manual glow plug button.

I suspect you have the DPC Module, the injection controller would not move the injection pump arm if you did not have it.

You need the glow plug relay, the button will activate it to warm up the glow plugs, I normally do not warm the glow plugs up more than a minute, 30 seconds is enough on a normal spring/summer/early fall day, I believe my timer is just short of a minute.

My glow plug relay is just right of my fuel screen, it is not a great photo, but it is all I have for a photo of it.

DSCN7197 (2).JPG (467.95 KiB) Viewed 333 times

[plenzen]

I have a number of heavy duty NGK glow plug relays here as well as some 30 second glow plug timers.

You can have them for the shipping cost

I cannot recall how to upload pictures here but will try later

The Relays are NGK No. G71SU
see here: https://www.amazon.ca/Frezon-Relay-Yanm ... d_source=1

And the timers are here:https://www.amazon.ca/Frezon-Yanmar-4TN ... d_source=1

Hopefully the links I posted will shrink once I post.
I have to try and remember how to post pictures,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, it's been a minute and I'm old