83 Maxima LD28 STILL Will NOT start

Discuss (and cuss) the Nissan LD-series OHC Six diesel engine, popularly available in the US in 1981-83 Datsun/Nissan Maxima Sedans & Wagons.

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Carimbo
Posts: 463
Joined: 15 years ago

#16

Post by Carimbo »

Where did you find that part number? Is it for the 1-1/2 imch thick wire bundle that runs along the frame rail under the fuel filter and w/w tank? Not a bad price, if truly available. Still would be quite a job to replace. I'd almost rather rewire the corroded portion, which calls into play a whole 'nother skill set. Soldering (preferred), crimping, heat-shrinking, wrapping, etc. None exceedingly difficult but takes plenty of practice before being able to successfully pull it off while hunched over the fender working in cramped conditions.

Good job troubleshooting to this point-- that's certainly half the battle. Perhaps you could find someone with the correct skill set to help you make the repair? Know any electronics tinkerers?

If steadily cranking the engine in your attempts to start it damaged the wiring then it was almost gone anyway. The major risk is burning out the (expensive) starter, however. Try to crank no longer than 10 sec. then let it cool off for a few minutes before cranking again.
83_maxima
Posts: 423
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Location: Denver

#17

Post by 83_maxima »

Carimbo wrote:Where did you find that part number? Is it for the 1-1/2 imch thick wire bundle that runs along the frame rail under the fuel filter and w/w tank? Not a bad price, if truly available. Still would be quite a job to replace. I'd almost rather rewire the corroded portion, which calls into play a whole 'nother skill set. Soldering (preferred), crimping, heat-shrinking, wrapping, etc. None exceedingly difficult but takes plenty of practice before being able to successfully pull it off while hunched over the fender working in cramped conditions.

Good job troubleshooting to this point-- that's certainly half the battle. Perhaps you could find someone with the correct skill set to help you make the repair? Know any electronics tinkerers?
I agree with Carimbo in that you are probably better off repairing the damaged portion of the harness. Replacing it would be much more work and more expensive.

As far as skills are concerned...everybody has to start from somewhere. It's been a long time, but I remember when I had no clue what belt snapped to cause my car to overheat (unrelated) but I dedicated myself to learning my car from that point forward. I did exactly as you have done and purchased the FSM and read it like it was a bible. Cover to cover. If you love your car like I do mine (even though she's a gasser) you will want to learn about your car and the skills necessary to take care of it YOURSELF.

The problem with 22 year old cars is that there is ALWAYS a rattle, always an electrical problem and you should be able to at least diagnose if not correct the issue (in most cases) if you planning on owning the vhicle for an extended period of time.

It will take time, but you will be proud of yourself and your car in the end...

Just my HO.

-ben
arcatalibra
Posts: 16
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Location: Humboldt County, California

83 maxima still won't start

#18

Post by arcatalibra »

I get more enthusiastic as time goes by the book is great- hope I'm not looking at the "errors" in it?

Today I unwrapped th red tape from the disinegrated wires- found what was left of a plastic fusible link connector? it was about the volume of one- but it was broken down to orange powdered nastieness. following that - PAIR OF 2 WHITE WIRES- to the starter (solenoid?) and to the I think I am certain here- glow plug connnector plate..


upon unattacing the bracket of relays for the starter, glow relay 2 etc- I discovered a long forgotten mini-eco system of tiny critters now mostly webs and heavy dirty crud entoms them similar to the citizens of Pompei
after the volcano incident.

uoh gotta go the mechanic is here!
I am taking a long handle brush to her and trying to decipher how far this has gone- since the $150+ starter was still turning on those last ignorant tries to crank her- I hope it is ok.

If I can stop trying to narrate now and back to the wires
uh hum- so the
Libra in California
83 diesel maxima sedan
267k
2nd owner
arcatalibra
Posts: 16
Joined: 15 years ago
Location: Humboldt County, California

83 diesel maxima the ongoing saga-

#19

Post by arcatalibra »

:?
My Maxima mystery has been slowly unraveling
I am very determined and I am learning w/ the help of this forum- thanks
everybody- Al is my hero 8) !

No on the harness- TOO MUCH WORK! thanks for the input :)

last wkend we reconnected the wires that were corroded thru
Not much difference except I had to look further and backtrack.
Also no camera to take pics- that would probably make it easier.

I was thinking glow plug realys- etc.
but I just wonder :idea:

I have been absorbed in the FSM-
From the positive battery cable ( w/the big cable that goes to the starter)comes 2black wires-about 6" down

blk wire # 1 has a small 2 piece plastic box(a) which comes apart in the middle(fusible link?) this box is burnt at both connectors in the middle.
at the lower end of this link about 3" of black wire connects to another link? from the lower (less melted end ) comes a heavy white wire w/ black stripe that disappears into the harness.

Blk wire #2 has yet another plastic box link thing which is burnt and melting out of the lower end of this link comes a heavy white wire which also disappears into ? and goes to ?

I am actually really hoping to hear from Al on this one- but all ideas are very welcome

I need to know whether I can just replace those links?
how far is this going eeeekk?
but I love my car!

Thank you in advance for your ideas
and again- thank s for the responses so far along.

It's a dirty job, but I am up for it :?: :D
Summer is racing by and my maxi wants to cruise!

Take care
Libra
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asavage
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Re: 83 diesel maxima the ongoing saga-

#20

Post by asavage »

arcatalibra wrote:From the positive battery cable ( w/the big cable that goes to the starter)comes 2black wires-about 6" down

blk wire # 1 has a small 2 piece plastic box(a) which comes apart in the middle(fusible link?) this box is burnt at both connectors in the middle. At the lower end of this link about 3" of black wire connects to another link? from the lower (less melted end ) comes a heavy white wire w/ black stripe that disappears into the harness.
Refer to FSM EL-40, bottom right of page. The 3" of wire is the Glow System fusible link, it is listed with a color code of 'L' which translates to Blue.

The link itself is trouble-free. However, nearly every fusible link connector (the burnt white nylon "boxes" you refer to) I've seen are in bad condition. They are oversize (5/16") spade terminals and cannot handle the heavy glow plug current for over 20 years. I have bypassed mine on both the Wagons. Use 10 gauge wire, and I recommend soldering rather than the usual yellow butt connectors. Remove both of the fusible link connectors and the 3" fusible link, solder in a 4-6" section of 10 gauge wire, insulate well.

Alternatively, you can attempt to replace the two connectors with crimp butt connectors. You can't solder fusible links, so you're stuck with a crimp-connection-only if you go that route. You will need a fusible link of around 60-80 amp capacity, melting if it goes over 100 amperes. Those figures are only guesses. You could buy a new fusible link from Nissan, but you will have some difficulty sourcing the connectors for the harness side, though I'm certain they can be had, just not from Nissan. IMO, the Glow System does not require a fusible link, but removing it is removing a safety feature.

When I sold the '82 Wagon to a co-worker, he called me in a panic the next winter, when it wouldn't start. Culprit was those connectors.

However, even if this wire is completely broken or the connectors shot, it will only affect the glow plugs -- the engine will fail to start, but will crank over normally. If I understand your previous symtoms, you can't even crank the engine over, right? [later] Oh, I see that you wrote that it cranks over OK. More on this later.
Blk wire #2 has yet another plastic box link thing which is burnt and melting out of the lower end of this link comes a heavy white wire which also disappears into ? and goes to ?
That white wire is the MAIN FEED for the car. If that connector is bad, nothing will work right. There are only two things that that wire does not feed directly: a) the glow plug relays (but it does feed the control system that energizes the GP relays), and b) the starter (but it does feed the Ign. switch that energizes the starter).

IOW, yes, that connector could be your problem. Or a problem.

====================

Electrical problems require a different diagnostic procedure than other problems. Keeping your eyes open can net you the problems that have obvious visual side-effects (burnt connectors, corrosion) but after you've repaired the obvious, the best tool you can use is a tool that can detect the presence (and amplitude) of voltage. I use both an automotive test lamp and a volt-ohm meter. You can buy both of these things for a total of less than $20, and they are essential tools, IMO.

The test lamp looks like this:
Image

All it is is a 12v lamp in side a translucent handle. That one pictured is a Snap-on, so it's rather expensive (and is the one I use most often) but you can buy a functionally equivalent test lamp that looks nearly identical and works exactly as well for under $5.

One end of the lamp is connected to a sharp ice-pick-like probe, which you use to "back-probe" a connector ("back-probing" is when you stick the probe in the back of a connector, usually with the connector still attached to whatever it attaches.), or less commonly to pierce a wire's insulation and probe the wire directly. The other end of the lamp is connected to a length of wire, with a clip on the other end.

When using this style of test lamp, you almost always (not always, but almost always) connect the clip ("ground lead") to ground, which means an unpainted metal part of the engine or chassis that is itself electrically connected to the negative terminal of the battery (I'm ignoring positive-ground vehicles for now, as they are pretty damned rare by 2006). If you are not sure if the metal is "grounded" (connected to the battery's Neg terminal), then connect the test lamp's wire clip to the battery's Neg terminal itself.

Next, after connecting the test lamp's ground lead, ALWAYS test the test lamp! Touch the probe end to a known-"hot" (connected to battery's Pos terminal) wire or terminal. If you're working under the hood, you can generally touch the probe to the battery's Pos terminal itself. Sometimes it's easier to touch it to the back of the alternator, where there is always a "hot" wire, but in any case you ALWAYS test the test lamp. This will save you a lot of time in the long run. Why? You can't trust the test lamp's ground lead connection until you test it. If you are probing a connector and the lamp doesn't light, is it because the connector is not "hot", or because the test lamp is ungrounded? That's why.

While the test lamp is a crude instrument, it is fast to use, cheap, and is great for checking things to see if any "juice" (positive voltage) is present at any particular point. If a symptom of a problem is that something doesn't work at all, the test lamp is a good tool to begin using.

[The volt-ohm meter is a more precise instrument, and (esp. the digital variety) can also tell you things that are misleading and contradictory. It's also the ONLY tool that you can use to accurately diagnose voltage drop: the property of a bad connection. You do that by backprobing either side of a connector, and with an electrical load applied, reading the voltage "dropped" across the connection. "Voltage drop" refers to the voltage that does not "make it" across a connection. A bad connector has high resistance to flow, and all the voltage on one side does not make it to the other side. There are several gotchas and exceptions and such, but that's the basic thing you're checking: very low resistance to voltage flow.

After electrical theory itself, voltage drop "analysis" (measurement) is the first thing taught in automotive electrical troubleshooting. You always (!) measure voltage drop with a load applied. This is important, because if you have no load, you will often only read battery voltage, which isn't what you're checking ;).
]

Back on 27-Jun, via email, I said: "Measure voltage at the IP shutoff solenoid wire (with it still connected:put probe in the back of the connector) while cranking. Voltage should be above 8v."
Image

The generic electrical test method I use is to connect the test lamp to a far end of the electrical distribution system (the IP solenoid in this case) and see if there's a failure. If there really is an electrical failure (lamp goes out when it should be on), move to the front of the electrical distribution system and see if you are now on the "other side" of the problem. Then work downstream toward the problem area.

The test lamp can work for this. Hook up the ground lead of the lamp, test the lamp, and then backprobe the IP solenoid wire. Have someone else turn on the Ign (but not crank). Is there a light? Then try to crank. Light go out? Look upstream -- now would be a good time to backprobe that heavy white wire connector (MAIN FEED) that's right off the Pos battery terminal.

With test lamp on battery side of white wire, lamp should light (Ign on or Ign off, doesn't matter). Turn Ign to ON, lamp still lit? Now try to crank:

* Light goes out? Bad battery, bad battery ground, bad battery terminal are the only options.

* Lamp stayed on when trying to crank? Move test lamp's probe to other side (bottom) of that connector, then try to crank again. Lamp out when cranking? Bad connector.

* Lamp stayed on? Follow the wiring schematic in the FSM, the next stop is the fusible links. You can backprobe all three of them, while cranking. If the test lamp will not light when backprobing those links, while cranking, you have narrowed down the area of the problem: between the heavy white wire's connector at the base of the battery, and the fusible links housing.

* Links test OK? Next stop is probably the back of the Ign switch. At that point you have to remove the plastic surrounding the Multifunction Switch (headlamp/turn sig) and the Ign switch, a bunch of screws, but not hard. Then you backprobe the Ign switch's connector. The colors are on the diagram on EL-40.

If you backprobe the feed to the switch and that feed goes dead when cranking (test lamp goes out), and you really did do the tests above to eliminate the possibility of a bad battery, bad battery terminal, bad MAIN FEED connector, bad fusible link, bad battery ground, then you have an internal harness break as Carimbo & I have had.

Anyway . . . that's an hour's worth of typing, so I'm through for the night.
Last edited by asavage 13 years ago, edited 2 times in total.
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.
arcatalibra
Posts: 16
Joined: 15 years ago
Location: Humboldt County, California

thanks AL!

#21

Post by arcatalibra »

I am gonna read all this in depth tomorrow is another day...
Muchas gracias

I am sleepy - been sanding on a dresser i'm gonna paint
and housework- and messing with the Maxi

THanks for the reply- I appreciate it more than I can express.

g'night

Libra
Libra in California
83 diesel maxima sedan
267k
2nd owner
arcatalibra
Posts: 16
Joined: 15 years ago
Location: Humboldt County, California

83 Diesel Maxima - IT"S RUNNING!!

#22

Post by arcatalibra »

Well Al & anyone else -

I am very grateful for the information I needed to get my Maxima running!
I had the digital multi-meter all along, but I didn't really understand what to do with it. So your patience and assistance was vital for me to get her started again.

WOW- it was way easy with your (very kind-you are!) step-by-step- troubleshooting for unexperienced dummies.

I wasn't totally sure I had the IP solenoid- BUT I touched the meter + end to the IP (everywhere I could fell and see in the book. nothing.

As for going upstream- just what I needed to do. I tested the connectors on those two melted areas and there was min. power flickering lower.
the bad connections from the battery--like you suspected-
I got the stuff together 10gauge wire in 2 colors, connectors (til I can get it soldered),cutters/strippers- Just did it.

this was after the reconnection of the two heavy white wires that had corroded thru beneath the battery.

so all in all four bad connections- I take your advice as word Al cause you only speak on what you KNOW and your are an incredible guy for providing this kind of info to a dummy like me! :shock:

What a guy!! Thank you very much for your time and advice.

After the last wires were together I looked at the friend I had finally cornered in for moral support and said I'm ready to drive!

My maxima started up like IT was ready to drive too.

wow-- I am so happy to have my car to get to school , and I went grocery shopping and didn't have to arrange a ride :D :D :)

I am a bit concerned - I set the clock yesterday- it stayed- for well til today when I truned on the headlights on the way home - that clock then went back to that 88:88, 00:00, and went dimmer- when I turned the lights off the clock came back to brighter I reset the display along the way and I am curiuos what I will find tomorrow-
I know I've seen a thread about a deep relationship with a clock issue-
I'll look thru it in a bit-
and I am not afraid to spend more time and check the alternator etc-
to get the experience if nothing eles- plus I stopped checking soon as I got it started :oops:
- I couldn't help but drive around to celebrate my success and to help my tired from cranking battery to re-group.HOORAY MY MAXIMA IS RUNNING!!

THANK"S DO MUCH TO EVERYONE WHO HELPED ME OUT WITH INFO!!

Sleepy- today- couldn't sleep last night- seroiusly I was too excited
Damn- I LOVE this CAR! I just love driving it!
I have different seats than I have seen in any of the pics of other Maximas- They are really plush and wide and comfy-

remind me of the seats from the 78 olds Cutlass.

wow- I am way to chatty- Sorry I forget you'all are guys sometimes :P

anyhow
Libra in California
83 diesel maxima sedan
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asavage
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Re: 83 Diesel Maxima - IT"S RUNNING!!

#23

Post by asavage »

arcatalibra wrote:I am a bit concerned - I set the clock yesterday- it stayed- for well til today when I truned on the headlights on the way home - that clock then went back to that 88:88, 00:00
That doesn't sound normal.
. . . and went dimmer- when I turned the lights off the clock came back to brighter.
That's normal. When you turn on the headlights, the clock display dims. It's a feature. Really. There's a HL wire running to it to tell the display when the HLs are on.

Now try to calm down . . . we're not used to that much enthusiasm. Next thing, you'll be talking about turbos :)
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.
arcatalibra
Posts: 16
Joined: 15 years ago
Location: Humboldt County, California

TURBO?

#24

Post by arcatalibra »

Turbo you say?

You mean you can make these turbo? :o

Wow- I don't know what all that means but it sounds cool !

I been telling the ladies I know -I fixed my car- then they ask what did I do?
I have seen mouths drop open- even from some guys-
I am empowered to not be helpless with my car-THANK YOU!!

I think I'm gonna just keep reading my maxi bible, loving my maxi, pr-training my 9 yr old to drive a stick- (watch the movements- I tell him),
since it's nice and foggy here lately maybe working on that oxidation -
got any favorites for doing that ?

then for that luxury item- the cd player- I someday- the maxi stereo is not a music lovers dream .

now's time to do the household stuff I've been putting off while I cared for the car!


Again- your quite a guy and I truly appreciate all your time and PATIENCE with me!

Have a fabulous weekend and I promise to calm down- gee I am on a brain rush of adrenaline- your correct-

Bye for now

L


:)
Libra in California
83 diesel maxima sedan
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asavage
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Re: TURBO?

#25

Post by asavage »

arcatalibra wrote:You mean you can make these turbo?
Yes. It's been done, and I'm gathering parts and ambition to add a turbo to mine. For more info, see this thread.
then for that luxury item- the cd player- I someday- the maxi stereo is not a music lovers dream .
I'm interested in how people accomplish this. The OEM system integrates with the separate cassette player, and the Voice Warning System also interrupts the LF speaker.
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.
arcatalibra
Posts: 16
Joined: 15 years ago
Location: Humboldt County, California

maxi stereo upgrade

#26

Post by arcatalibra »

HUH?

Ok talking lady interuppts the lf speaker?

so I would need to dedeicatae that factory speaker to the talking lady.

I was thinking I would need to upgrade all the speakers to go with a cd player and I am thinking anything is possible.

I have an exp car stereo installe- the kids all have top quality bomming systems here- much more than I want -

But see my radio/cassette has a nasty crackle to it- volume knob affects it- makes it unbearable!

it that a "burnt channnel" I don't know what that means- but i have heard that term used?

If I have a bad connection on the radio/cassette- big whup
I CAN DRIVE HER!!

my son asked me yesterday-
are you sure the car is not a guy named MAX?

I asked ya think?

so my she MAXI- is from here on to be know as MAX83.

My son thinks it is totally awesome and wonderful that mom got the car to run.

And so do I .

THANKS
I AM OFF TO DRIVE THE MAX83 around for a Sunday cruise!

YEAH three cheers for Al and the NISSAN DIESEL FORUM !!


bye bye Lorna
Libra in California
83 diesel maxima sedan
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2nd owner
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asavage
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Re: maxi stereo upgrade

#27

Post by asavage »

arcatalibra wrote:Ok talking lady interuppts the lf speaker?
Yup. Try it sometime. Next time you're low on fuel and hear the "Fuel Level is Low" msg, turn on the radio, get your head near the door speaker, and press the Repeat side of the Voice Warning rocker switch on the console.
I was thinking I would need to upgrade all the speakers to go with a cd player and I am thinking anything is possible.
Most folks probably wouldn't mourn the passing of the Talking Lady.
But see my radio/cassette has a nasty crackle to it- volume knob affects it- makes it unbearable!
It only crackles when you change the volume, right? Yes, that's corrosion on the volume potentiometer. You can lessen it by rapidly moving the volume from low to high a few dozen times. A more effective/permanent fix involves removing and disassembling the radio, and I don't recommend it.
it that a "burnt channnel" I don't know what that means- but i have heard that term used?
No, that's when you connect the wrong speaker up (wrong impedence) and overload an amplifier output transistor, and it shorts. You get a dead channel. If you get any noise out of a speaker at all, the amp is working. I'm not an audio expert though. I've been into a lot of amps & radios though. Ten honest watts is usually good enough for me. Take a look at this post of mine from 2000 if you want to get a feel for this kind of repair -- though the Maxima's radio is an order of magnitude more complex.
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.
arcatalibra
Posts: 16
Joined: 15 years ago
Location: Humboldt County, California

83 maxi runs again

#28

Post by arcatalibra »

oh my - you do have an intimate relationship w/ these cars- yes- I'll try the volume knob quick fix- but I am still cleaning up from the last adventure with the wires- have nasty smudges on my front fender :(

But any way the Max is looking sweet and running fine too-
I am fortunate to have no soot issues crusing along- even back on petro diesel.

I am still getting 260 miles to the top half of the tank so I try to keep it above half a tank.

I been hearing the brakes doing their high pitched squeal thing every once n awhile- seems mostly on the pass. side-

I am not in a situation to pull off wheels here at the apts.
But now over at the kids house - where they built the
get this-
the VolVo
a Volvo body, a Toyota 4X4 frame and an big Chevy engine

It is loud as hell and it gets some stares alright

But that is a project my daughter's boyfriend configured-
20 yrs ago my friend had a boyfriend wanted to 4X4 his old el camino
he got it up in the air but no 4x4.

I need to get a move on here to get this dresser finished too
I get online and surf too long and then the day is gone-

It is good talking to ya -
It's fun to know there's others out ther trying to keep these classic maximas alive-

oh and I looked at the Turbo stuff
doesnt look like a big deal to do the change over(Like I know HE HE HE)
but I mean it looks like it bolts up nice and easy?

I am wondering what would Turbo do for say a 5 speed diesel maxima?

Wow that would totally blow people's minds if the datsun was quick from the gate- you know I adore this car- but 1st and 2nd are not exactly winning any friends from the folks behind me on the freeway onramp!

BUt IF they should ride too close to my bumper- just when they least expect it- the maxima blows them a sweet black kiss - ever so lightly, gently my car implys "some consideration please!"



OK really that's it for now-
Talk to ya later-
Lorna
Libra in California
83 diesel maxima sedan
267k
2nd owner
User avatar
asavage
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Posts: 5365
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Re: 83 maxi runs again

#29

Post by asavage »

arcatalibra wrote:oh my - you do have an intimate relationship w/ these cars . . .
I've owned my '82 Wagon since 1997.
I been hearing the brakes doing their high pitched squeal thing every once n awhile- seems mostly on the pass. side-
You may want to read near the end of this post for generic brake squeal advice.
20 yrs ago my friend had a boyfriend wanted to 4X4 his old el camino he got it up in the air but no 4x4.
I've seen that conversion successfully done.
oh and I looked at the Turbo stuff
doesnt look like a big deal to do the change over(Like I know HE HE HE)
but I mean it looks like it bolts up nice and easy?
Well . . . mostly. The exhaust headpipe will have to be fabricated entirely, at the least, as will the new intake plumbing. But it could be a lot worse!
I am wondering what would Turbo do for say a 5 speed diesel maxima? Wow that would totally blow people's minds if the datsun was quick from the gate- you know I adore this car- but 1st and 2nd are not exactly winning any friends from the folks behind me on the freeway onramp!
It's 80 HP. The gasser version is 120 HP. You aren't going to get a whole lot more out of it with a turbo unless you provide boost-controlled fuel compensation, which is going to be some work. I would be surprised if the turbo alone added more than 5-10 HP. I'm wanting it for the smoke reduction, mostly. And the cachet (sp?).
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.
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kassim503
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Location: Stony Brook, NY

Re: 83 maxi runs again

#30

Post by kassim503 »

arcatalibra wrote:....
I am not in a situation to pull off wheels here at the apts.
But now over at the kids house - where they built the
get this-
the VolVo
a Volvo body, a Toyota 4X4 frame and an big Chevy engine
Chevy small block? big block? IN A VOLVO?! is it a volvo 240 station wagon, that is the ultimate sleeper :lol:
'83 maxima sedan, l24e, a/t, black

227K SOLD 6/7/2012
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