Cold Starting

Discuss (and cuss) the Nissan LD-series OHC Six diesel engine, popularly available in the US in 1981-83 Datsun/Nissan Maxima Sedans & Wagons.

Moderators: plenzen, glenlloyd, goglio704, Nissan_Ranger

Post Reply
83_maxima
Posts: 423
Joined: 19 years ago
Location: Denver

Cold Starting

#1

Post by 83_maxima »

My 'new to me' 81 diesel has a manually wired glow-plug button that consists of an old doorbell button - nice touch. The car starts fine when warm (as it should) but this morning when attempting to start the car (about 20' F) I had to cycle the plugs 5 times (10 second per cycle) to get it to start.

I made a fuss about the GPs when I bought it, she didn't seem to think that it was a big deal. I would like to re-instate the original system.

The question here is: is it safe to be cycling the plugs that many times with this doorbell control? Do we have any threads on re-instating the OEM system from one like I've got?

TIA
User avatar
asavage
Site Admin
Posts: 5454
Joined: 19 years ago
Location: Oak Harbor, Wash.
Has thanked: 2 times
Been thanked: 3 times
Contact:

#2

Post by asavage »

I don't think you can burn out the Maxima's GPs, they seem to be the older, slower, safer style.

The OEM period would be longer than 10 sec. for 20°F weather. Rather than work the starter, I'd lean on the button for a lot longer, like 30 secs. at that temp.

[later]
The '81 Diesel Supplement is pretty sketchy on specs, though it has a fine wiring diagram and schematic. The '83 FSM says only "below 50°F, 13 secs". and then says for afterglow that -13°F = 31 secs. of afterglow, 68°F = 17 secs. I guess you're supposed to do your own interpolation.

BTW, I have two 1981 Diesel Supplements. One is an ex-library and has a broken spine, but is in quite good condition otherwise; if you're interested, PM me. They don't come up on eBay very often, even less than the 1981 "main" FSM. IMO, they're not terribly useful, and the 1982 FSM that has both gasser and diesel stuff is really a better manual. I have a few spare '82 and '83 FSMs too, but you can easily buy them cheaper on eBay with some patience. It's only the '81 manuals that are difficult to buy at a reasonable price these days.

The Fast Glow Unit (GP Controller) is located (clearly shown in the '81 Supplement) in the driver's kick panel area, where the '82-83 ones are under the passenger seat; this is one instance where having the '81 Supplement would be of benefit: the '82/3 FSM would have you looking in the wrong place.

If you can work out the correct pre-glow time, the button would probably be useful, either as a replacement for the OEM system or as a supplement. A couple of us have found that the GPs won't light at all on a warm (not hot, not cold) engine and make warm starts difficult. My '82 is that way, and I'm planning on adding a manual button for warm starts, rather than try to debug the OEM controller system.

Afterglow is about the only thing the OEM system does that you couldn't easily replicate. It could be done (I'd use one of my CanaKits) though.
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.
83_maxima
Posts: 423
Joined: 19 years ago
Location: Denver

#3

Post by 83_maxima »

What is the consensus then on reverting back to the OEM system?

I know about the afterglow factor and is why I thought that is was an important feature.

I am just a little 'less than comfortable' with the idea of the generic ford relay running the GP system. It would also be nice to have it automatic in the event that a less than experienced driver were ever to use the car.
User avatar
asavage
Site Admin
Posts: 5454
Joined: 19 years ago
Location: Oak Harbor, Wash.
Has thanked: 2 times
Been thanked: 3 times
Contact:

#4

Post by asavage »

83_maxima wrote:. . . in the event that a less than experienced driver were ever to use the car.
Easily fixed: don't loan the car!
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.
83_maxima
Posts: 423
Joined: 19 years ago
Location: Denver

#5

Post by 83_maxima »

asavage wrote:
83_maxima wrote:. . . in the event that a less than experienced driver were ever to use the car.
Easily fixed: don't loan the car!
Thinking girlfriend. It will only be the 2nd automatic besides her car. She's yet to elarn how to drive a MT, but we are working on it! 8)
User avatar
asavage
Site Admin
Posts: 5454
Joined: 19 years ago
Location: Oak Harbor, Wash.
Has thanked: 2 times
Been thanked: 3 times
Contact:

#6

Post by asavage »

83_maxima wrote:She's yet to elarn how to drive a MT, but we are working on it! 8)
Learn on a Geo! (disposable car).

Actually, when I teach driving MT, I use a diesel. Harder to stall, and you have to pay attention to torque range (and the audible feedback is good, too).
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.
User avatar
kassim503
Posts: 1027
Joined: 19 years ago
Location: Stony Brook, NY

#7

Post by kassim503 »

83_maxima wrote:
asavage wrote:
83_maxima wrote:. . . in the event that a less than experienced driver were ever to use the car.
Easily fixed: don't loan the car!
Thinking girlfriend. It will only be the 2nd automatic besides her car. She's yet to elarn how to drive a MT, but we are working on it! 8)
When my girlfriend drove my car, she blew the fuel pump :lol:
Really!
'83 maxima sedan, l24e, a/t, black

227K SOLD 6/7/2012
User avatar
asavage
Site Admin
Posts: 5454
Joined: 19 years ago
Location: Oak Harbor, Wash.
Has thanked: 2 times
Been thanked: 3 times
Contact:

#8

Post by asavage »

kassim503 wrote:When my girlfriend drove my car, she blew the fuel pump :lol:
Kassim, I am trying very hard not to respond to this in an obvious way. I just want you to know that.
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.
83_maxima
Posts: 423
Joined: 19 years ago
Location: Denver

#9

Post by 83_maxima »

asavage wrote:
kassim503 wrote:When my girlfriend drove my car, she blew the fuel pump :lol:
Kassim, I am trying very hard not to respond to this in an obvious way. I just want you to know that.
:) :) :) 8)
Carimbo
Posts: 467
Joined: 19 years ago

Re: Cold Starting

#10

Post by Carimbo »

83_maxima wrote:I would like to re-instate the original system.... What is the consensus then on reverting back to the OEM system?
Not a bad idea, but the amount of work would depend on what was wrong or failed before to make the PO do the workaround. After checking the auto glow system components then you could decide if it is worth the effort. The fast-glow control unit might be unobtanium, I think we recently saw a GP relay-1 on ebay, the GP relay-2 appears to be a common plug-in relay module, the dropping resistor ???, water temp sensor ???

Generally the auto glow works well, except as Al mentioned above, warm starts (roughly 20-30min. after shutdown) can be difficult because the water temp sensed is higher than than the cutoff point the system uses to energize the GPs. In this case, the FGCU does not operate pre-glow above 122*F sensed at thermostat outlet housing. (FSM, p. EL-39)

My solution was to wire in a momentary-open switch into the water temp sensor circuit. Actually in series to the wire at terminal 5 or 8 (forget which) of the FGCU. Pressing the switch when turning the ignition to Run tricks the FGCU into thinking the engine is cold, to operate pre-glow. For those warm-soak times when it will not want to start, I depress the switch (refrig. door lamp switch)(unobtrusive, easy to mount on dash) 2-3 secs. prior to engaging the starter, fires right up! (Reminds me of my old '55 Chevy PU that had a dash-mounted two-position ignition switch just to the right of the steering column, and a starter button on the left side of the steering column bracket. Got me used to needing two hands to start.) Works great, easy to implement but might not be the best solution. Guessing that it *might* also trick the FGCU to operate an overly-long (for a warm start) after-glow period-- probably unnecessary wear and tear on the GPs. One day I will test w/ the VOM to see exactly what is happening.
Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 6 guests