Oil Pan Removal

#1

The oil pan gasket on my car is leaking.

The pan must come out (in my estimation) to replace the gasket.

The front crossmember is directly underneath, the swaybar is directly in front of it and the transmission cooler lines are attached as well.

I am assuming that I am going to need to remove the swaybar and the lines. I hope to slide it out over the crossmember.

Does anyone know if the crank would interfere with the pan if I were to slide it out?

Any suggestions on how to make this any easier?

TIA

#2

I have not done this job.

Are you certain that your leak is the pan gasket? This is one of the most mis-diagnosed oil leak areas. Almost oil leak above the pan rail will wet the rail. I'm not saying you don't have a pan leak, but both of mine are dry, and I've done a lot of oil leak chasing on customers' rigs.

Some time at the car wash and some spot cleaning to make the engine and area above the pan rail clean and dry would be time well spent, before committing to that job.

#3

oil pressure switches,oil filters etc.even engine mount bolts.

the tin plate hat covers the flywheel must come off.if you cant get the sump out[its easy with the 4 cyl] you can raise the engine[wood blocks under engine mounts] and clean and replace gasket.

#4

My last 2 lunch hours have consisted of cleaning off the 1/2" of crap that has accumulated on the bottom of the engine in an effort to find this leak. I've got fresh oil on both sides of the engine and small drips off of the cooler lines leading to the rad.

The VC gasket is leaking - for sure - maybe I should replace it and do some more cleaning and determine what I have then?

I had not thought about the pickup but it sure would be in the way at somne point.

I guess I'm gonna need a couple more cans of carb cleaner.

#5

Definitely change the VC gasket first, it's been a major leak point on both of mine over the years.

#6

Also I would check to make sure the vac pump oil lines aren't leaking too. Leaks there send oil down the front side of the motor.

good luck
steve a

#7

Hopefully it is just a vcg or oil pressure sending unit. Getting the oil pan off with it out of the car is bad enough while pirating a crank.

You can't get a ratchet to the bolts under the oil pan extension on either side.

#8

Sorry for asking, but what is the VC gasket? its new in the forums acronym lingo

Dropping the pan sure as hell looks like you gotta raise the engine or lower the crossmember a bit, the gap is tiny between the two

Which car has the leak?

#9

kassim503 wrote:Sorry for asking, but what is the VC gasket? its new in the forums acronym lingo

VC = valve cover IIRC

steve a

#10

Used another can and a half of brake kleen to try and clean this filthy thing off and see where the oil is leaking.

The NEW (from yesterday) oil is coming from the vc gasket. It is dripping down the side of the block, over the #6 GP and the starter and off the back of the engine. It has also leaked enough to cover the OTHER side of the block at one time or another with a nice coat of oil.

The cooler also had a small amount of oil on it so I will continue to watch it. Had the boss order a new gasket today, so I should be able to tell if this is the source of the oil or not very soon.

#11

Oh in that case, yeah adjust your valves and change out that VC gasket, it has a tendency to leak over time, or if you dont have any rtv on hand to help hold it in place while you put the valve cover on, but a strong leak from the VC gasket would probably show oil running down the side of the block, or smoking up on the manifolds or spark plugs

Yeah, acronyms havnt ever been my strong point, before I joined this forum IIRC and IOTW where still foreign to me

#12

Adjusting the valves is part of the plan.

No spark plugs on THIS one.

#13

kassim503 wrote:...and change out that VC gasket, it has a tendency to leak over time, or if you dont have any rtv on hand to help hold it in place while you put the valve cover on...

Mine sealed up well w/o any rtv or sealer. The thing to watch out for w/ the VC gasket is to not overtorque the VC bolts. Tighten them evenly in steps, ending in slightly more than 1-or-2-finger-pressure-tight-on-edge-of-1/4"-ratchet-handle.
Too tight and the edge of the VC easily cuts completely thru the gasket.

You will want to have the VC/new gasket all prepared before you start the valve adjust because most likely you will have to get the engine hot again at least once during the process, requiring fitting the VC and gasket a few times.

#14

Another check today revealed a *little bit* of seepage at the front of the oil pan. The bolts were slightly loose, So I gave them a little tighten and will check again tomorrow.

The primary source of the oil seems to be the vc gasket. I'll need to check the oil pan though - and it still needs a lot of cleaning.

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Oil Pan Removal

Oil Pan Removal

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