Ymmot wrote:Ok, here is what is wrong:
Needs a shut off solenoid.
Nope, the DPC system isn't like anything you've ever seen before. If it won't shut off, chances are it also won't put the IP in "Start" mode (overfuel) during cranking, either. This can be cheap or expensive to fix. Do a search here on "DPC Controller", Philip's written a lot about maintaining the DPC system, and educate yourself on this, or be prepared to be surprised later. There's a lot to know, and I guarantee that it isn't like anything you've ever seen before.
Turn signals aren't working, hopefully a relay or a fuse.
Never that simple. Well, it
could be the flasher relay, but it isn't real likely, they don't fail in the 720 very often. Worst case is a bad turn signal switch (I have several used ones), and they are the same as the gasser 720 so you can pick one up at any JY for fairly cheap, read more about them
in this thread.
No key to work the door locks, possibly stolen one time as the ignition tumbler has been replaced the guy that owns it now.
I work as a locksmith. See how to find the keycode
in this thread (glovebox sticker is likely up to 1983, or also the tailpiece of passenger door lock most any year if it hasn't been replaced). I can cut a key by that code that will work if the door locks haven't been rekeyed or replaced.
Here is a video of it at idle:
Requires Macromedia Flash version 8, which is unavailable for my platform, due to collusion between Macromedia and M$. That is, the code has been written, but Macromedia refuses to release it.
Here are the pics
Oh, I see what you mean about the turn signal and flasher relay, all hanging down. Just that mess alone should be worth knocking off $200
Nice seat covers. Strange shifter boot. The usual broken intake plenum hose, which is apparently unavailable new. Is that red string holding the battery in? Check for rustout under the battery tray, it's very common up here. Used to be factory A/C but compressor is removed. Fuel filter looks like 1982 style (see
this post for details). Cab rust is going to be worse than you think, see
pics of this 1981 KC "Bellingham Truck" and look at the floor after the mat is removed, you'll see pretty much what yours will be like. The bed rust shown is typical.
Due to the rust, I would probably not offer more than $400 at the
very most. The engine/trans and wheels make it worth that kind of money, and the fact that it can be driven is just icing. The "Bellingham Truck" I mentioned above had comparable rust to what you show (though the pictures of mine look worse because someone took a hammer to the weak areas of the floor and knocked them completely out, but it's not as if there was anything substantive holding them in!). The seat mountings were going, so the seat belt lower anchors were about non-functional, though you could yank on them, there's no way they'd offer protection in an accident, to prevent you from impaling yourself on the steering column shaft. Also, there was significant rust on the frame at the arches above the rear axle, which can't be seen unless you actually jack it up and get under it and look for it. I was leery of putting a load more than a couple hundred pounds in it for that reason, and I found a less rusty '86 gasser to do an engine swap with the drivetrain of the rusty one.
Take serious note of that rust. I consider that one to be bad enough to consider a "parts truck". The frame is not that hefty on the 720s.