CL (OR): 1982 Maxima Wagon LD28, $600

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asavage
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CL (OR): 1982 Maxima Wagon LD28, $600

#1

Post by asavage »

http://portland.craigslist.org/clc/car/422823895.html
82 Nissan Maxima Diesel - $600
Reply to: sale-422823895@craigslist.org
Date: 2007-09-14, 7:05PM PDT

I posted this last week forgetting info and unable to respond to the many e-mails. I'm the second owner. The car is so reliable. It always starts. It has new battery and alternator is less than a year old. It has 187,000 miles. The car has been in an accident. I hit a truck going less than 5 miles an hour and the front end passengers side got bumper damage and hood bent a little.It stll closes fine. The upholstery is really getting old. It has some holes and dirt spots too. Some cosmetic exterior trim is gone or peeling off. The power stearing is not working. Pump is still in it but it doesn't work. The mirror on drivers side has no glass in it. So as you can see the car is not perty but it runs great and uses no oil and when last checked it got about 30 MPG. It is so nice to haul long loads as both rear seats fold down. You can even sleep in it that way. It has 2009 tags. Tires have less than 5,000 miles on them...look good. One humb cap is missing. It has a in line 6 cylinder diesel engine.

* This item has been posted by-owner.
* Location: Molalla
Image Image Image Image

Priced to sell -- good price. Bear in mind that the PS pump is unique to the LD28 and a gasser PS pump won't fit. And it's likely that the PS high pressure line has sprung a leak (or the rack is leaking) and that that is the cause behind it all.

(I have a spare LD28 PS pump)
rlaggren
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#2

Post by rlaggren »

I'm seriously considering this wagon but there is a lot of "little" stuff broken. This could be OK, but... So if anybody has comments on the the grief involved with the following please chime in.

-Windshield Actually I've got a quote for $300 (hopefully the guy didn't make a mistake) with warranttee on this so that's one unknown nailed down

- Power mirrors don't work and the driver's side has no glass in it. This is fairly important to me. How much trouble to find/install new mirrors? Or repair... The one I fixed on a 92 Buick was not _real_ difficult but kinda a nit-pick pain, hence I mention replacement.

- Power steering doesn't work. The owner believes it is NOT a leak but rather the unit has fluid and is not functioning. Assuming this is so, I'm wondering how far down the pipe the problem may be found - like maybe in the rack & pinion? Or maybe he isn't recalling correctly. Or maybe its gotta be the pump. The car is driveable by his account.

- Collision damage to the front bumper, hood, probably the front right fender, the headlight area. Don't know about the cross piece over the radiator but he says there is no problem with the psngr door. Any WAGs about whether the fixes are simply "cut off, bolt on"? Eg. the fender? I saw the bumper horror comments but does that translate into body problems or is the weakness and problems all found in the bumper (which theoretically could be cut off and replaced)? Being able to correct the sheetmetal w/no or minimal bending or welding structurally would be a plus. He said he'd send more pics.

- Drivers door lock is kaput The owner says it just quit working, totally wore out and that what's on there now is just a place holder. He says the linkage rods are all there but that door cannot be locked. I got the impression that he may not have the original "box" or cylinder - have to get more details.

- Rear drivers side window doesn't go down

- A/C doesn't work, of course.

- Interior is pretty well used up from what he said, so that means carpet and seats somewhere along the way. Forgot to ask about the headliner.

I guess what immediately concerns me is the mirrors, door lock, steering and sheet metal more or less in that order. He (though it's his wife's car) says it drives and operates fine, minimal rust, has some recent mechanicals like starter and alternator. It sounds like a good deal but the above items need done fairly quickly for it to be really useable - ie. so I could get rid of the Taurus wagon cuz 4 vehicles is too many for a guy w/out a garage at the moment. So if it is likely to take 6 months to get door lock to work, this could be a problem.

I'll stop here and get onto searching the forums some more.

Thanks, Rufus
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#3

Post by asavage »

rlaggren wrote: Power mirrors don't work and the driver's side has no glass in it. This is fairly important to me. How much trouble to find/install new mirrors? Or repair.
If you can glue mirror glass over whatever is left on the existing mirror, that's the way to go.

I've looked into replacing the glass with OEM-style w/backing -- took one apart at the JY -- and determined that I would not be able to get to the mechanism without breaking it irreparably. The plastic bits that you have to remove to get the glass off the mechanism just won't flex enough after all these years.

However, replacing the whole unit is relatively easy: it bolts to the door. I have a spare but it's not blue. You may have it free if you need it, but the color match will be funky.
Power steering doesn't work. The owner believes it is NOT a leak but rather the unit has fluid and is not functioning.
The pumps are not known to generally fail unless run out of fluid, and even they they'll put up with abuse in that regard.

It's common for the rack boots to be bad. Nearly every one I've seen has a bad boot or two. It's also common for the rack to leak. And on the diesel, the pressure hose develops leaks too (and is unobtainable). Do a search, both Matt & I have fabricated new PS hoses, it can be done. I also have a JY '81 hose I picked up recently, but I'd go with a new fab'd one if I were you. If you have a hose leak.

I have a spare PS pump (same car at the JY). The PS pump is unique to the LD28 version of the Maxima, don't be fooled.

Be aware that the rack's inner tie rod ends wear out. So do the outers, and the ball joints for that matter. The suspension is a bit light for the weight of the vehicle.
Collision damage to the front bumper, hood, probably the front right fender, the headlight area. Don't know about the cross piece over the radiator but he says there is no problem with the psngr door.
This is really not possible to guess at. If the inner fenderwell/battery area is damaged, most DIYs are going to have a hard time performing a repair, and this kind of specialized repair is very expensive commensurate with the vintage of the vehicle.
Drivers door lock is kaput The owner says it just quit working, totally wore out and that what's on there now is just a place holder. He says the linkage rods are all there but that door cannot be locked. I got the impression that he may not have the original "box" or cylinder - have to get more details.
I'm a locksmith. I have (used) locks. I can also buy new locks. I can key one to match your door. Read this thread for more info on this topic.
Rear drivers side window doesn't go down
Usually, it's the console switches that die. If you need a lift motor, I'm sure you can get one inexpensively. Around here, the motors are slow but they don't seem to die.

It is likely to be the console switch, the door switch, or the lift motor. Less likely (on a rear door) is the wire from the jamb to the door. Finally, it might be jammed with crap if it was not used for a number of years and left outside. That is an outside chance though.
A/C doesn't work, of course.
A/C repair is always expensive, done right. I will not debate here the merits of leaving an R12 system as R12. I have had to replace the TXV (two years ago) on my '82, and now have a leaking joint at the receiver/drier to deal with. If I wasn't able to do it myself, these two repair could easily have run $800-1000. A/C repair is always expensive.
Interior is pretty well used up from what he said, so that means carpet and seats somewhere along the way. Forgot to ask about the headliner.
Ten years ago, a complete Sedan carpet kit cost me $180 from an upholstery shop. A Seller on eBay lists carpet kits for Gen1 Maximas, can't recall the price. You will likely not find a kit for the cargo area of the Wagon. Any auto upholstery shop can do that area. This kind of specialized repair is expensive.

If you need more than to replace the seats or possibly door panels, you should think about another Wagon, or learn to live with them. Trying to repair worn upholstery can easily run up to a couple grand.

I have to get back to work now . . .
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.
goglio704
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#4

Post by goglio704 »

Unless I'm missing something, I'd be all over that car for $600 if it wasn't clear across the country. If it was an 83 with the overdrive trans, the distance wouldn't stop me either.
rlaggren wrote:... Or maybe its gotta be the pump. The car is driveable by his account.
Steering is heavy without power assist, but driveable.
rlaggren wrote: Collision damage to the front bumper, hood, probably the front right fender, the headlight area. Don't know about the cross piece over the radiator but he says there is no problem with the psngr door. Any WAGs about whether the fixes are simply "cut off, bolt on"?
Once you get down to the actual structure in the front of these cars, the parts are not bolt in. More pics are in order, but it doesn't look that bad to me.
Matt B.

83 Maxima Sedan, LD28, 5 speed, white, 130k miles. My original Maxima.
83 Maxima Sedan converted from gasser, LD28, 5 speed, 2 tone blue, 230k miles
82 Maxima Sedan, LD28, 3 speed auto, 2 tone Gray/Silver, 140k miles
81 810 Sedan, LD28, 3 speed auto, rust, rust, and more rust!

2005 Jeep Liberty CRD
rlaggren
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#5

Post by rlaggren »

Al,

Thanks for the notes and the upholstery warning. If I get the car I may take you up on that mirror (after a quick check at the JY). That single item is the most serious problem with using the car in my view and needs fixed immediately.
rlaggren
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#6

Post by rlaggren »

Al,

Thanks for the notes and the upholstery warning. If I get the car I may take you up on that mirror (after a quick check at the JY). That single item is the most serious problem with using the car in my view and needs fixed immediately.

Matt, after what I've read here you'd have a race on your hands for any decent 83 wagon I heard about. <g> But the Taurus wagon I got is asking for $1200 upfront in repairs not counting the power steering that's living on Lucas syrup - so I'm willing to look at more common stuff that isn't too bad right now and doesn't preclude "making nice". Hope to see more pics soon.

Onward.

Rufus
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#7

Post by asavage »

I wasn't trying too hard to dissuade you, but I seem to often run into folks that seem to want a five-year-old car, and are disappointed when a 25-yr-old car has so much deferred maintenance.

Like inner tie rod ends, automatic trans fluid change, diff. oil change, unfreeze the rear drum brake adjusting mechanisms that are "always" frozen; the sticky high beam fix, IP belt replacement (and tensioner), coolant change that's usually long overdue, cruise control hoses leaking, GP bus rot. All those items have posts or threads on this board, and they are all common maintenance items or weak areas that will with near-certainty need attention. Some sooner than later, but attention they will demand. This isn't a five-year-old modern car we are talking about. I see a lot of folks buy an old Maxima or 720 diesel and sell it off within a year, because they just didn't realize the level of commitment to keeping any 25-yr-old car on the road when it's being used daily. Stuff wears out. Stuff breaks.

I guess I'm just trying to say: keep it all in perspective. I've said it before, so it should come as no surprise: I'm not all that keen on the Gen1 Maximas I've had and have. I love the LD28, I'm pretty happy with the LxN71b trans, but the Wagons' seating position hurts my back, the seat's too low, the consoles are always broken, the windows are slow, the pre-83 Wagon suspension is too short and too non-compliant, etc. etc. I only keep mine as a convenient way to store the LD28 it contains.

FWIW.
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.
rlaggren
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#8

Post by rlaggren »

Pretty solid perspective you're putting things in! <G>

I'm kinda in the place where I know what I'd like and have found there's only 3 or 4 machines that come close until you get into the $30k+ range - and even then, the specs and form factor don't seem all that impressive. The Max, Peugeot and maybe the Volvo wagons are the only ones that seem to come close. The diesel Volvos seem to have diappointing engine life (though getting one into good shape and maintaining it might solve that), the Peugeots are even more exotic than the Max's with less power, and the Max is an "easy chair" car (Peugeot probely is too - it has a real soft suspension from what I read). Mercedes can be good cars, but my impression is that even if I got a good one for free, it'd put me in the poor house. What's a guy to do? <g>

I'd go with a (diesel) sedan if the back seat folded down flush w/the trunk floor and I could get 6'6" long access, but finding anything like that seems like shooting for the moon. I've seen it now and then, but don't remember which cars and I didn't see it much. Might not work anyway. I drive cross country a couple times a year with 2 cats and I've found that it makes more sense to just drive, sleep in the car and drive rather than try to make a vacation out of it. But the kicker is if I sleep in the car, I sleep FLAT and no other way, so I need 6'6" flat storage - hence the wagons. Will never forget the time in 1980 I slept in the drivers seat of a Ford Fairmont, got gas the next morning and couldn't straighten up after bending over the counter to sign the chit. Yeow!

And yeah, I could prolly use a PU w/extended cab, long bed and shell but that wouldn't work good for my normal town use and I can't keep so many vehicles. But the Taurus is hopefully good for another run or two so I'm not looking at a fire drill yet.

Cheers, Rufus
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#9

Post by asavage »

rlaggren wrote:The Max, Peugeot and maybe the Volvo wagons are the only ones that seem to come close.
Some folks love the VW engine in the Volvo, others hate them. The timing belt shredding takes out most of them.

The Volvo's advantage is the flat cargo area, which (at least on our '73 145) was very sturdy and very flat.
. . . the Peugeots are even more exotic than the Max's with less power, and the Max is an "easy chair" car (Peugeot probely is too - it has a real soft suspension from what I read).
The Peugeots are very nice riding cars, and even the Wagons are comfortable. Typical long-travel suspension. The engines seem relatively durable, though unless you have a Turbo version they are a bit doggy. Parts have to come from the moon (or Canada), of course.
Mercedes can be good cars, but my impression is that even if I got a good one for free, it'd put me in the poor house.
They're not as bad as all that, but the Wagons go for more than they are really worth, and the hydropneumatic suspension used on many Wagons is really not cheap to repair, though again the ride is good. The MBs are not very quiet inside, at least the W115 and W123 chassis cars I've driven. The Maxima is quieter.

The ride in the Maxima Wagon (until '83) is not very good. Definitely the worse of your grouping. Very little rear suspension travel in the leaf-spring version. Nissan fixed this in '83 by moving to coil springs and trailing arms in back, but us '81-2 Wagon owners can attest that the rear does not ride nice with any kind of a load at all.
I'd go with a (diesel) sedan if the back seat folded down flush w/the trunk floor and I could get 6'6" long access . . .
Be aware that the only way to get flat in the Maxima Wagon is to do what I've done, and remove the rear seat cushion entirely. In stock form, the rear seatbacks do not fold flat, they form a 10° incline. Annoying enough for me to give up the rear seat lower cushion -- I put it mine in the attic. Once you remove the lower seat cushion, the seatbacks fold to a perfect flat, and mine are that way permanently now.

The Maxima's main advantage is the power: they are easily the best-in-class for that vintage in the power dept (although I've never driven the turbo version of the VW engine in the Volvo). But they do smoke. And the mileage isn't as good as the Peugeot, though it's much better than the MBs.
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.
rlaggren
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#10

Post by rlaggren »

Like the round-up.

Damn! I thought the Maxi wagons I've seen got a flat cargo area with the seats folded. ... Glad you mentioned that cuz that's an issue. Would you think the seat could be forced flat and strapped that way? Maybe rivet a piece of webbing somewhere with a tie-down buckle on the other end... The ride I might not even notice. I don't drive a lot of new soft cars. <g>

I know about Mercedes gold plated repair parts. I rebuilt an old '60's gas 200 in '76 or somewhere's back then. Loved the car as a whole, but vowed never to mess with them again because of the parts. And that one was real simple compared to later models. Also, the maintenance intervals are relatively tiny and simple stuff like a front end alignment was unnecessarily complicated (as I recall - maybe it was the rear brakes that really buzzed me). The later active suspensions are just a whole different world. Anyway, I kinda look there last of last.

Maybe I'll take a quick look at some Volvos and see if I can find a Peugeot to check again; the 504 Peugeots seem pretty weird control-wise, but maybe the 505's are more standard. Gotta jump some day, though.

Cheers, Rufus
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