LD28 into Land Rover 110

[asavage]

I've got a spare harness plug to the EGR controller, from Mark's 1981 Wagon in his yard. Even if you didn't have the mating plug, I could provide it with four pigtail wires soldered to the pins. You're going to have to run two wires from the Rev Sensor at the IP adapter no matter what box you use to drive the tacho.

Really, there is no more work involved in wiring in the stock EGR Controller (just ignore about ten wires on the plug) than any other tacho driver. The only advantage that the purpose-built board has is that it's probably smaller.

OEM EGR wiring:


Add one wire to the tacho to that last diagram, and that's it.

Pared-down EGR wiring for tach-only use:

[windsock]

Hey Al,

Cheers for the offer but...

I worked it out that USD30 + USD30 = NZD91 + whatever postage. NZD100+ total and then I still have to buy a tacho to fit. I'll look around here in NZ for an EGR (really regret not stripping the one out of the donor car now )

Did I mention I got a price on the latest model TinyTach? NZD232 which includes tax (12.5%) and postage. The scientist in me appreciates the idea of digital numbers but the driver likes a dial better I'll figure someting out soon.

Cheers,

Phil

[asavage]

I wasn't trying to sell you something, just pointing out that the EGR Controller mod isn't any more work than other solutions. Yeah, it's not a cheap fix from your end.

[windsock]

I wasn't trying to sell you something, just pointing out that the EGR Controller mod isn't any more work than other solutions. Yeah, it's not a cheap fix from your end.

Thats cool mate, wasn't trying to not buy anything... Just spending good money on good VDO gauges at the moment and watching the coin.

Went around some wreckers (vehicle dismantlers) yesterday looking for an EGR controller. they all laughed and said they hadn't seen anything like that in about a decade... Gettting more and more mad at myself as I saw one as little as 10 months ago before I scapped the car Don't mind the spendy so long as it is both a rational and resasoned purchase. You may get a PM soon enough with a purchase order

Cheers,

Phil

[davehoos]

C32/R31/D21 and urvan dont need the egr amplifier.
australian models dont have EGR.I havnt had problems myself but im guessing that the signal isnt strong enough to run other devices like cruise and transmisions or after market tacho used in the american car..the ampiflier must be in the dash printed circuit of the tacho.
swaping the petrol and diesel tacho is all thats needed in the car.

toyota SV21 camry need a signal amplifier to run xtra bits like LPG these are now getting old but someone might have a listing.my friend fits a bosch ignition module to boost signals without much drama.

C32
seporate 4 pin plug on the inst cluster
ignition power and earth.the 2 other wires are direct from the sencor[LD28 and RD is behind injector drive wheel,4 cyl also has 6 pulses.
new FWD LD20II have a sencor under the crank pulley and or sencor on the injector pump like CD20 and most other jap engines.

i think LD20II it has 4 pulse so you need a 8 cyl tacho.

my skyline RD28 custer has red-- black wire diagnal opossite in the plug inside the dash.this lines up with yellow/red and black.black is away from the lock tab.the other 2 wires go to the sencor

petrol tacho has yellow wire for signal this conects to yellow/black wire.
diesel has the extra brown wire and no 2.2K resioster.

[windsock]

Hey Dave,

What a great piece of information that was for me, very useful.

The old LD28 tacho out of the donor car lives again Hell, that was a piece of luck then that I kept the dash... cool piece of luck!

Once the novelty of seeing it on top of my land rover dash wears off I'll disect it carefully to get the amplifier mechanism and adapt to an aftermarket tacho. Alternatively, I could strip the tacho clear of the Laurel dash housing, rehouse it into another box and simply mount on rover dash somewhere...

Cheers,

Phil

[cab]

Hello Phil,

Have you tried to get gaskets (head, intake, Etc.) for your LD28? Just curious on the availability of parts for this engine in New Zealand. Finding parts here in the US is becoming very difficult

Thanks, Keith

[windsock]

Hello Phil,

Have you tried to get gaskets (head, intake, Etc.) for your LD28? Just curious on the availability of parts for this engine in New Zealand. Finding parts here in the US is becoming very difficult

Thanks, Keith

Hi Keith,

Sorry for the long delay in replying. Been on an extended road camping trip and only had internet cafe access till recently.

Had wondered this same thing myself recently as I contemplate engine work on the spare engine and a few sump alterations on my land rover LD engine.

The local Nissan dealership is a fairly large one so I called in there this morning to enquire price and availability.

Points to note as follows:

All LD28 gaskets are available for sale in NZ are available ex-Japan and have a 10 working day delivery period.

Prices (all quoted prices are inclusive of NZ sales tax of 12.5%):

Engine repair set: NZD599.84
Cylinder head (3 thicknesses offered)
1.12mm: NZD240.49
1.20mm: NZD239.19
1.28mm: NZD176.83
Rocker cover: NZD63.90
Sump gasket: NZD37.91

Bit of an eye-opener looking at those prices. Should get a full set myself so I have them here and before our dollar descends to serious levels against the yen...

As an aside, did a bit over 4000kms on the road trip and had a trouble free run from all things engine oriented. May have overheated my gearbox oil seals though through maintianing a high speed for a long duration but time will tell on that score as to how bad the oil leak is. I used to have one of those rare land rovers that didn't leak oil, now I fear I am owner of a normal one again...

Cheers,

Phil

[rlaggren]

Interesting New Zealand Nissan will order up the head gasket from Japan. The U.S. division must be run differently - they just say NLA..

Does anybody know whether the thicknesses spec'd are the "crushed" thickness or the shipped thickness? I've been looking at the custom gasket makers again and it looks like there's an l28 MLS gasket which conceivably could work and there's the copper gaskets which can be made to order in a number of thicknesses. The copper gaskets apparently don't crush so if going that route you'd need to order the crushed thickness. On thinking about it, maybe you could just "mike" the old gasket... From what I've read, copper gaskets tend to be leaky and need careful attention to the oil and water holes (ring w/gasket sealer); but some have reported no problems for over 10K miles.

Rufus

[windsock]

Interesting New Zealand Nissan will order up the head gasket from Japan. The U.S. division must be run differently - they just say NLA..

Does anybody know whether the thicknesses spec'd are the "crushed" thickness or the shipped thickness? I've been looking at the custom gasket makers again and it looks like there's an l28 MLS gasket which conceivably could work and there's the copper gaskets which can be made to order in a number of thicknesses. The copper gaskets apparently don't crush so if going that route you'd need to order the crushed thickness. On thinking about it, maybe you could just "mike" the old gasket... From what I've read, copper gaskets tend to be leaky and need careful attention to the oil and water holes (ring w/gasket sealer); but some have reported no problems for over 10K miles.

Rufus

Hi Rufus,

Having read a few threads on this site about gaskets being quoted as available only to find on order NLA I will assume similar stuff here until proven otherwise. Although when I enquired a few weeks back about 'zorst' manifold gaskets they quote me two in stock in one of our bigger city nissan dealers (Auckland). Re-used an old used one after a liberal spray of silver paint so didn't bother him with an order, regret that now.

I need an engine set as a standby spare set so will see how my latest job search goes in a week or two and try to leave the engine work till then.

I do not know about whether the thickness is installed or uninstalled thickness. Thats a damn good question actually.

Another question, those of you that have taken their engine heads off in the past will most likely have seen notches somewhere on the outer edge of te gasket. I was told by the youngster at the dealership that 1 notch = 1.12mm, 2 notches = 1.20mm etc. Where are these notches? I'd like to figure out gasket thickness on my daily drive by running a needle or similar around the area where the notches are to ascertain what thickness I have so I can order similar or larger in case when i need work done I get the head shaved.

Cheers,

Phil

[asavage]

It bears repeating that I was able to order several Fel-Pro head gaskets (bare) and gasket sets (w/o head gasket) in Jul07. I've since sold most of them, but are we really certain that they aren't available in the aftermarket?

[rlaggren]

but are we really certain that they aren't available in the aftermarket?

Al,

I like your thinking but it seems to me the only way to nail it would be to get a line into Fel-Pro. And even then it might be hit-miss.

Rufus

[asavage]

I just special ordered them. Took a couple of weeks.

[windsock]

I just special ordered them. Took a couple of weeks.

Hi Al,

What thickness (assuming you ordered head gasket) and how much? Any price on a full engine set?

Prices here seem very high. NZD is climbing on the back of a falling USD so may be better I go stateside for these.. we'll see.

[windsock]

Hi,

just noticed this morning motoring back from town, I just clocked up 18,000 kilometres on the engine almost 2 weeks shy of the 1st anniversary of its install. Not bad driving for the last year either... pleased with economy and performance. Averaged 11l/100kilometres in that time which includes offroad driving also.

No problems other than the vacuum issue in the blocked fuel line a few months back.

Cheers,

Phil