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I own the 82 Maxima Diesel (auto) from this thread: http://nissandiesel.dyndns.org/viewtopic.php?t=1607... I can't actually confirm the smoking problem as I've only gotten the car to fire for just a second or two. There seems to be a problem with the glow plug system, I'll get into that later...
Quite a few people suggested that the injector pump may be timed wrong, so I did some research, and went to asses the situation. My IP pulley has 3 punch marks on the outside ring. One that is marked "A", another that looks to be marked "B", and a third, which is just a punch with no letter.
Going off this page of the generic LD28 manual, I currently have the cam in the position shown (#1 cyl compression stroke?). I actually went around 3 or 4 times to make sure it was right, and on my last trip around I finally found the mark on the IP belt... Here is a picture of the current situation...
![Image](http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a159/RacnJsn95/dmax/12_14_07043.jpg)
The A mark is currently towards the top as you can see, with the IP belt mark aligned with it... According to everything I've been able to find that is the setting for the LD20, not the LD28, correct? The B mark looks to be 7-8 teeth to the right, and the punch mark with no letters looks be be about opposite of the A punch mark... Very similar to this picture from the 82 FSM:
![Image](http://asavage.dyndns.org/Nissan/Maxima/FSM_1982/FSM_1982_EF-042-1c.jpg)
It looks like the IP was never removed from the engine for the pulley swap mentioned in the previous thread about this car started by the PO, so I'm assuming it is close to where it needs to be.
So this Friday, I'm going to tear the radiator, and v-belt stuff off, and attempt to re-time this beast, but I'm unclear as to which mark I'm really supposed to use? I've seen conflicting info, some saying to use the "B" mark, and some saying to use the "no letter" mark, which is right? From looking at the picture, will I need to remove the pulley, or would I be able to just turn it to the needed mark?
The next problem, being the glow plugs. I don't think the GP system is working properly... Unfortunately I seem to have misplaced my multi-meter, and my wire test light, so I can't really test stuff right now... But if I sit in the car, and turn the key to ON for the GP warm up, most of the time I don't hear the relay click on or off... I'll have to repeat the process 5-10 times to hear a relay noise. Seems like it's hit and miss... Just to get the car to fire for the couple seconds it did, I had to plug in the block warmer for a couple hours... Any suggestions there?
I'd appreciate any help you guys can give me, especially with the IP timing issue.