- Factory Service Manual, etc.
- Model Year Changes
- Common Problems
- Engine general
- Fuel System
- Glow Plug System
- Intake Manifold Grunge
- Parts Availability
- Revision History of this document
FSM = Factory Service Manual, ie the manual that Nissan provided and sold. This is a much more comprehensive reference work than third-party repair manuals.
FLAPS = Friendly Local Auto Parts Store
IP = Injection pump.
GP = Glow Plug.
GPC = Glow Plug Controller.
LD2x = Nissan LD series of diesel engines. These are OHC inline engines. The two main variants are the Four cylinder LD20(T) and the Six cylinder LD28, the latter being supplied to the US 810 market in 1981-83 only.
NLA = No Longer Available
OM = Owner's Manual
OCI = Oil Change Interval
SDxx or SD2x = Nissan SD series of diesel engines. These are pushrod OHV valve inline engines. The Four cylinder SD2x was primarily used in the Nissan 720 pickup (US: 1981-86), various forklifts from 1965 to the early 90's, gensets, agricultural pumps, etc. The Six SD33(T) was sold in International Harvester Scout II/Traveller vehicles from 1976-80, also popular in marine applications where it was sometimes sold as a Chrysler engine (1960s-1980s?). The SD engines were never used in the 810/910/Maxima/Bluebird lines.
Factory Service Manual
Here's a handy link to search eBay for Factory Service Manuals. eBay is almost always the cheapest source for a FSM.
If you plan on doing any non-trivial work with your LD28, I recommend that you acquire a genuine Nissan Factory Service Manual (FSM) -- the factory manual is worlds better than a Haynes/Chiltons/Clymer/Mitchell/Motors manual, and does include full wiring diagrams, which are absolutely necessary to diagnose some of the body's subsystems. I've bought several FSMs from eBay sellers, $5 to $30, after paying $75 for one from the dealer in 1996. Things you should know include that the 1981 810 manual has all the diesel items in a completely separate Supplement, so if you see an auction for an '81 FSM, be certain that you can buy the "other half" as well, or it'll be a lot less useful. The 1982-3 manuals integrate the diesel info alongside the gasser. The 1984 FSM has no (none) diesel info in it, so don't bother -- I've somehow ended up with three of them :/
As of 1997, only the 1983 FSM was available from Nissan.
810/910 Parts Catalog: It looks like this. It is a handy reference that allows you to figure out which parts are the same in which years. It seems to be fairly rare, in that I've only seen two of them (both on eBay), and I own one of them. A sample page is page 252-3b (colors were added by me).
There exists the Nissan Parts Catalogue software (Nissan FAST). It is not very good, but it's better than nothing. A recipe for installing it has been written.
Model Year Changes
glenlloyd wrote, "I was visiting the Autozone parts page a while back and noticed that their system knows what percentage of cars came with certain powerplants. Now this could be far from accurate, but it indicates the following with regard to the gen 1 Maxima and the LD28 engine."
1981 - 13% (were imported with this engine)
1982 - 27%
1983 - 5%
1984 - LD28 not listed as available on their site.
- US introduction of the new, larger, restyled 810
- Std engine is 2.4l FI Six (L24e)
- 2.8l Six diesel engine option (LD28) made available mid-year (except in California)
- Sedans have IRS suspension front & rear (H180 diff), 4-wheel disc brakes
- Wagons have solid rear axle (H190 diff) and rear drum brakes
- Sedans have option of FS5W71B 5-spd manual trans or 3N71B 3-spd auto
- Wagons get the AT only
- Sunroof unavailable on Wagons
- The "810" name is dropped in favour of "Maxima"
- Vehicles are dual-branded with both "Datsun" and "Maxima by Nissan" badging
- AT adds lockup torque converter (L3N71B)
- Mirror controls change to single pad and switch in Jul-81 (was dual pads)
- GP Fast Glow Controller is moved from left kick panel to under passenger seat (?)
- Power Door Lock feed circuit gets a circuit breaker (instead of fusible link) next to the PW breaker behind pass. kick panel. Both breakers are now round instead of rectangular. more info
- EGR system goes to three-stage control
- Wagons move from leaf spring rear to coil springs
- Improved oil filter introduced that incorporates an internal bypass filter
- AT adds overdrive (L4N71B) and console switch to electrically disengage it
- Brake booster adds a "low vacuum" switch to warn driver of increased braking effort
- Driver's PW control moved from console to door; front pass. PW gets an addl' switch on the pass. door (in addition to the one on the console)
- A/C switch turns instead of being a pushbutton, and now has two modes: Econ and Max. "Econ" moves the turn-on temp for the compressor up a few degrees.
- Dome light switch changes from 1982's lever switch to a "push on the lens" switch (actually two tactile switches)
- Grille gets a chrome-like finish
- AT models (gas & diesel both) get different rear trans crossmember design and go to dual trans mounts, rather than a single mount (MT models use the same early AT mount for all years)
- Hood ornament changes from all-metal rectangular "Datsun" to more square "Datsun" with blue plastic insert.
- Minor silkscreen changes behind temp/fuel gauges
- Diesel engine option dropped
- "Datsun" branding dropped from badging
- Grille gets a "Nissan" badge on the left side
- Hood ornament now reads "Maxima" instead of "Datsun"
- Complete redesign of model, now front-wheel drive; probably no part interchange with '81-83 models
- Won't start, engine will crank: IP Belt strips/breaks
- Won't start, won't crank: broken splice in wire harness (headlights etc. work, but dash warning lights won't come on with key, neither will it crank).
- All dash warning lights stay on or come on intermittantly while running: Alternator not charging (for various reasons: failed/failing alternator, loose or breaking wiring to alternator, very bad alternator belt, etc.)
- Headlight stuck on Highbeam when cold
- Overheating: wrong style thermostat
- Door rattles, or window won't move easily or almost at all (not an electrical problem)
- Door is unlocked but will not open: missing actuator bumper
- Startup/Shutdown heavy shaking: worn motor mounts
In the US, the LD28 is the most commonly known version of the LD-series OHC diesel engines, and AFAIK was only imported in wide numbers in the 1981-83 Datsun/Nissan Maxima luxury sedans and wagons. The LD28 is an inline Six engine with a single chain-driven overhead camshaft. It features a seven main bearing crankshaft that is prized by modders of the 280Z engine, as using the LD28 crank in combination with special rods and pistons can yield a stroker 280Z engine of 3.1l displacement. Additionally, the intake manifolds from the LD28 are sometimes used in fuel-injected turbo applications of 280Z engines. For these reasons, a good many LD28s are being scrapped for those parts.
In other countries, a variant of the LD28, the LD20, was/is available. It is very similar to a cut-down version of the LD28, having only four cylinders, but the bore is 0.5mm larger and the stroke 3mm longer. eBay often has an importer who offers the LD20 as a "low mileage" unit, sometimes comlete with a RWD 5-spd trans attached, for a reasonable fee, in Florida.
The injection pump (IP) is a Diesel Kiki (Bosch) VE design, a so-called "distributor" pump featuring electric operation of shutdown and limited injection timing modulation. It's the big brother of VE IP used in millions of VW diesels, and some parts do interchange. Early Dodge Cummins engines also use this design. For its time, it was a sophisticated design, incorporating an integral vane-style lift pump. As installed in the Maxima, it's a PITA to adjust.
The Bosch VE (distributor-sytle) IP utilizes an integrated lift pump. Unlike many other diesel engines, the VE does not have a separately-serviceable external fuel pump.
- Injection Timing: The official recommendation is to "inspect" the injection pump timing every 30k miles. Hah! Who has the Nissan tool Part No. KV11229352? It's NLA from Nissan, and even if you've got one, it's not the easiest thing in the world to use. What you're supposed to do is remove a plug from the rear of the injection pump, in the middle of the six injector lines, and screw in this tool, which is an adapter + dial indicator. Then you disconnect the actuating cable of the Cold Start Device (which advances both the idle speed and the low-speed timing) from the accel arm of the IP -- did I mention that you have to drain some coolant and remove the coolant hoses from the CSD?. Oh, and remove the PS pump. Then you can rock the engine around and line up some marks and check the indication on the dial indicator as to whether the IP has to be unbolted and wiggled around to reset the timing -- and that involves loosening all six injector lines (the FSM actually has you remove them completely).
It's not easy, and it's not fun. I venture that this procedure doesn't get done on 5% of LD28s in service. Enter alternatives -- Lengthy discourse follows.
The Kent-Moore "Tach-N-Time" J-33300 diesel timing unit, a tool that was popular in the '80s to allow timing using a standard stroboscopic timing light in combination with the Tach-N-Time that has its own piezoelectric injection line pulse detector. The detector clamps on to No. 1 injector line, and when the IP sqirts the fuel, the pulse adapter senses that event, and the Tach-N-Time then provides a suitable high voltage (or current; I don't know which) pulse through a loop to which you clamp an standard timing light pickup.
The timing light can thus fire the strobe light using the Tach-N-Time as a trigger source.
The Tach-N-Time counts the pulses of No. 1 injection line and displays the RPM. Moreover, it has a feature that was very rare twenty years ago: it does digital manipulation of the signal under user control, so you can do digital delay and advance of the trigger pulse to the timing light. This is handy for us LD28 owners that have only a TDC mark on the flywheel (accessed under a 1" plastic plug in the flywheel cover, just above the starter). Because we have only a TDC reference mark, and the timing light would normally fire off several degrees in advance of that mark, how would you know when it's timed right? Yup, you can lean on a rocker switch on the Tach-N-Time, and it'll retard the trigger signal to the timing light, delaying the strobe. Keep leaning on the rocker switch, and eventually the timing light will fire at the right time and the TDC timing marks will "line up": the Tach-N-Time has delayed sending a signal to the timing light long enough that even though the actual injection occured several degrees of rotation ago, the light fires late enough that the TDC marks appear to line up. Then read the degrees of advance off the other digital display on the Tach-N-Time's front panel. Nifty, eh?
Many modern timing lights now do this digital delay thing, but in 1984 this was cutting edge stuff.
I own two Tach-N-Times, I bought them over the last three years and paid a small fortune for each (they can still be purchased for nearly $1000 from some sources; I didn't pay nearly that much). They are available for loan to interested parties, but you'll pay for shipping both ways, and it will be packed like it's fine china! If you get enough value from use of a Tach-N-Time, I will accept small donations, but it isn't necessary.
The problems with using the Tach-N-Time is that:
a) It's finicky. The pickup isn't a sensitive as I'd like, at least for the LD28. It works, but you will want to wear hearing protection while working under the hood and reving up the engine while holding a timing light and working the Tach-N-Time's switches. The LD28 isn't quiet, and your head will be close to it.
b) There are several different "standard" ways to measure diesel injection timing, and they're all incompatible with each other and use different metrics. One uses a "luminosity proble" that you screw in place of a glow plug, it has an optical pickup (!) that "sees" the flame front and uses that to provide a trigger to the Tach-N-Time (or any one of several competing units that do the same thing). Another is the "spill port" method (doesn't apply to LD28, but does to SD series) where you measure fuel coming from the No. 1 delivery valve assy, while turning the engine over slowly and watching timing marks for start of delivery. Yet another is the pulse adapter method that I described above, and there's a system that uses a magnetic pickup in combination with a luminosity probe, and probably one or two other methods that I've forgotten. All the methods measure timing using slightly different numbers, so knowing that an SD22 wants 20Â° BTDC timing at cranking speed doesn't necessarily equate to 20Â° indicated on the Tach-N-Time using the piezo clamp pickup, and the luminosity probe would give still different numbers.
c) Because there is no official "piezo pulse method" timing number for the LD28 -- we're supposed to use the static timing method outlined in the FSM, using a tool that doesn't exist for us anymore -- I don't know what "normal" is, when using the Tach-N-Time, because I've never had a freshly-correctly-timed-by-the-book LD28 available to me to cross-check what timing the Tach-N-Time will yield. However, I and others are working on obtaining the "magic number".
There are other products around that work similar to the Kent-Moore Tach-N-Time J-33300. The most common one is the Snap-On MT257(A) (and the nearly-identical Ferret 765). They are both pretty expensive units, don't have a tachometer function, nor a trigger advance/delay function. In the case of Snap-On, the MT257 was commonly sold in conjunction with an MT-1480, which does the tach and advance/delay bit, and you can pick them up on eBay quite cheaply, often less than $50, but without a pulse adapter, it's not a lot of use. I own an MT1480. I keep looking for a cheap MT257A but they are not commonly available used -- and over $300 new.
Using either a Ferret 765 or Snap-On MT257A, you'll need a modern timing light that does the advance/retard functions on its own.
The glow plug system consists of a GPC, a full voltage relay, a reduced voltage relay, a voltage dropping resistor, and the glow plugs themselves.
The glow plug controller monitors coolant temperature, glow plug voltage, and ignition key position. Based on this information the GPC initially closes the full voltage relay located on the passenger side strut tower. During cranking and after starting the plugs are run at reduced voltage by means of a relay in the relay cluster behind the battery. The voltage is reduced by the dropping resistor wired in series. This resistor is also on the passenger side strut tower.
See this thread for a glow plug interchange chart.
- Engine Oil & filter. The official recommendation for 1981-82 is 3k for the oil, 6k for the filter. For 1983, that was stretched to 5k/10k respectively. 2500 miles for "severe driving conditions". Huh? I don't know anyone who changes oil without changing the oil filter as well anymore, and I wouldn't try it -- it's false economy. The reason for the longer interval for 1983 is that the 1983 filter incorporates a bypass filter as well as a full-flow, all in one housing. Bypass filters work better.
Oil: The official recommendation is API CD rated oil. That was a specification developed in about 1955. Any name-brand oil is going to meet that, though if you buy house-brand oils, be sure and check the API rating first -- there are still some very poor oils being sold under no-name brands. Oils not specifically rated for "diesel" use will likely still be fine; again, check the API rating for a Cx rating where the "x" is greater than "D". The current diesel API spec is CI-4!
The official viscosity recommendation is 5W30 if the ambient temp is always below 60Â°F; 10W30 for temps above 0Â°F, and SAE 30 optional above freezing. The LD28 is not picky about viscosity, but unless you have a real oil-burner, thinner oil is better than thicker. It requires less hp to pump (a not insignificant amount) and will lubricate better at cold start and during warmup.
- 1981-2: The Wix (51521)/NAPA (1521) is an unusual bird, not always in stock. I've been using the similar 1085 (3/4"-16 thread) filter, which is the filter Chrysler used for over 30 years, and is available everywhere. It's the same diameter and the same height as the 1521. The 1085 has a higher burst pressure of 365 PSI (compared to 325 PSI for the 1521) but one hopes you never see those kinds of pressures, and if you do, you have bigger problems than the filter's burst rating! The gasket is identical, the bypass valve is identical, the bypass valve is set identical, and it fits fine.
- 1983: Wix 51094/NAPA 1094. The thread size is 1"-12, so it's completely different from the earlier filters. More info on the 83 filter is here and also here.
- Air filter: Every 30k miles is the official recommendation, but I'd not go that long. Diesels move a lot more air than gassers, and can really crap up a filter fast. Note that you'll want a vacuum cleaner or similar to clean out the debris that falls into the lower air filter housing when you lift out the dirty filter. Do not neglect this step. Even a wet sponge and paper towels is better than nothing.
- Fuel filter: Unfinished/under construction/placeholder: needs a write-up (maint. interval, part Nos., procedure, tips, WIF light)
- Valve clearances: Every 15k miles. Buy a valve cover gasket before you start, it's only $19 from NAPA, but you'll have to order it. Intake: .010", Exhaust: .012". Tricky part: the engine has to be up to operating temp, and has to stay that way during adjustment. In practice, that means that you warm up the engine, take off the valve cover, and adjust about half the valves. Then you put the cover back on and run it some more, to get the temp back up, then remove the valve cover again and adjust the rest.
- Injection pump belt: Interval is unspecified for 1981-82; every 60k miles is listed in the 1983 manual. The Voice of Experience says to change it on time. Mine failed at 86k miles (original belt) and left me stranded; however, Steve Addy's appears to have made it to 153k with only minor wear. I also think it's a good idea to replace the tensioner as well.
This is not a job you do just for a check of its condition -- you go into this job with the intention of replacing it, and probably the tensioner as well, and possibly the front crankshaft seal. Maybe the radiator hoses too, because you'll have them off if you pull the radiator as I recommend. The FSM says that you can change the IP belt without removing the radiator, but I say you're better off just taking it out, it's a lot easier IMO -- I've done this job three times now, and prepping for a fourth. The list of things you'll want to round up in advance:
- IP Belt
- Accessory belts if necessary
- Upper & lower radiator hoses
- Hose clamps
- Transmission cooler hoses (bulk, for AT use)
- Coolant (and distilled water)
- IP Belt tensioner
- Front crankshaft seal if necessary
Nissan part numbers
Belt = 16806-V0700, $24.05
Tensioner assy = 16805-V0700, $77.54 (Possibly NLA from Nissan. See this thread for options.)
(click here for a page from the manual. Other pages are here and here.)
The replacement involves removing the air filter ducting, upper & lower fan shrouds, lower plastic splash shield, the fan assy, the belts, and the front crank pulleys, then the tin cover over the belt. Some notes: you may find it easier if you drain the coolant and remove the upper radiator hose. The IP belt cover has a 7mm-head screw in the center that screws to a support post underneath, and it's easy to overlook (and even easier to overtighten and break, ask me how I know). The crank pulleys come off as an assy via (6) 6mm socket-head (Allen) bolts. Use a proper Allen socket to do justice to them, although I suppose you could use a wrench and hammer instead.
Tensioner bolts require 8mm Allen to loosen.
If there is any leakage from the front crankshaft seal, now is the time to replace it: NAPA No. NOS18970, about $6. Seal box says the dimensions are 48mm x 70mm x 12mm which works out to be
In order to replace the IP belt, the crank pulley hub can stay on (only the pulleys have to come off). But if you need to replace the front crankshaft seal, the hub will have to be removed, and that involves two obstacles. The first is the crank bolt (27mm), which is (as you'd expect) pretty tight. I removed the radiator (to gain room) and used an air impact wrench, and even at that, there was barely enough room. The hub removal requires a puller; a cheap $15 one will do, it's not that hard to remove or install, but a prybar isn't going to get it done.
For a seal driver, you'll want a pipe or socket that is not too long (you will be trying to hit it with a hammer, but not swing back into the A/C condenser!) and about 2-3/4" at the OD.
During reassembly: be certain to install the PS belt before reinstalling the fan clutch/fan assy. You can't slip the belt on after the fan is mounted to the water pump. Not a great design, but then again, the PS belt on mine lasted 110k miles (or more) and though cracked, it still worked OK.
- Coolant: Official recommendation is every 30k miles. Coolants that aren't "extended life" (ELC) typically use silicates as the basis of their corrosion inhibitors, and silicates only protect for about two years. Changing the coolant is not on most people's radar, so it's often never changed until the water pump goes or similar. Put it on your list!
- Thermostat: Many of the thermostats sold for the LD28 are incorrect. The correct thermostat has a disc on the bottom that covers a bypass port as the thermostat opens. Use of the incorrect thermostat will lead to insufficient flow of coolant through the radiator (coolant bypasses radiator and is recirculated). For more information, see Philip's post, Al's post.
The EGR system necessarily puts exhaust (with soot) into the intake manifold, as part of its function to reduce NOx emissions. The crankcase is also vented to the intake manifold, permitting crankcase vapors and combustion blowby gasses to be reburned to reduce HC emissions. The combination of the two -- soot + oily vapours -- can lead to a grungy-oily-sooty buildup in the intake track, the intake manifold, & the intake ports in the head. This restricts airflow and can lead to excess fueling and black smoke, as well as a reduction in power & mileage.
I pulled my intake manifold off last year to check it, and it was pretty ugly. Click on any image for larger:
I tried cleaning the intake manifold halves via normal methods, but got lazy and eventually sent them off to be professionally cleaned by an automotive machine shop, which cost about $40. The intake valve areas I cleaned myself, using a shop vac with a flexible fuel line duct-taped to the nozzle, a small brass wire brush, and about two cans of aerosol carb cleaner. An hour of work, and I was able to remove about 80% of the crud in the intake ports. It made a mess in the shop vac, of course, and vacuuming volatiles like carb cleaner may not be the safest thing to do, but the alternative was compressed air, and I would have ended up with black crap all over the shop if I'd gone that way.
You'll want to round up the intake manifold-to-head gasket, the intake plenum gasket (upper to lower) and the EGR gaskets (2).
EGR gaskets are (I think) NAPA CRB 2-25210, which are $2.60 ea but definitely special order. Or Fel-Pro 72578 (my notes have the word "correct gasket" written next to that number).
Plenum gasket is Victor MS-12353, $4.
AFAIK, the five-speed FS5W71(B) was only available in the Sedans; wagons always got the automatic. The manual transmission apparently shares its guts with several other Nissan vehicles of the period, including the 720 PU. If this is true, then be aware that two bearings on this transmission may be weak (improved in 1985-86). The input shaft bearing, and the front countershaft bearing. If you hear any noise at all (esp. noise that is markedly quieter in 4th gear), figure on a quick rebuild (bearings) or the gears will chew themselves up fast. If it's been driven any distance with noise, don't bother rebuilding, the gears will still howl even with new bearings. For more information on the FS5W71 transmission see this post.
Every year had a different model AT:
1981: 3N71B = conventional 3-spd AT*
1982: L3N71B = 3-spd w/lockup converter
1983: L4N71B = 3-spd w/lockup converter + OD
* The 1981 Maxima Diesel Supplement claims the '81 diesel uses the lockup TC L3N71B AT just like the '82s did. The 1981 "gasser-only" FSM says that '81 got the non-lockup 3N71B. May have been a mid-year change, or maybe all 1981 diesels got the '82 AT. I just don't know.
See this thread for more information on installing the L4N71B into an '81 or '82 chassis.
Some parts that are No Longer Available (NLA) from the dealer:
- Power Steering pressure line. On the Maxima, some gassers use a Saginaw (GM) PS pump, other gassers use an Atsugi, and all LD28s use the a completely different Atsugi, Nissan part No. 49720-W2500. Here's a page from the 1982 FSM that shows them. They each have different hydraulic fittings to their hoses. One-third of the hose is flexible, the other two-thirds is steel and bent specifically for the Maxima's PS rack. It's all one piece, the flexible section crimped to the steel section.
When my pressure hose developed a bad leak, I thought I'd be able to buy the hose, but it's NLA from Nissan, and none of my aftermarket sources could supply one. Then I thought I'd be able to have one custom made, but nobody in my area could supply a hose fitting that would fit the pressure fitting on the Atsugi. Knowing what I know now, I'd probably contact an outfit such as Hose-Man in Calif., but I solved my problem by removing the OEM female-to-pump fitting from the old hose (using a Dremel and small cut-off wheel), then I had it welded to an SAE female fitting, making a back-to-back hose adapter. Then I had a section of flexible hose made up with a male SAE fitting to fit the adapter, and a high-pressure compression fitting to slip over the steel line section of the hose assy. It's been working well for over a year, and looks pretty professional. Cost was under $75 total.
Someone on eBay has been peddling a replacement hose, but the general consensus in the forum is that it's not for the LD28, even though the auction states that it is.
- Engine Torque Damper. This thing looks like a miniature shock absorber. Nissan part No. 11290-W1701. It mounts to the engine in the area in front of the IP IIRC, and its lower end attaches to the suspension->front crossmember. It damps movement of the engine. It was supposedly NLA, but as of Mar-2006 I was able to order and receive a new one. For more info, see this post and this post.
- Wagon rear brakes: Wagons have drum rear brakes. An important tip is that though they are self-adjusting, the adjustment mechanism isn't like other self-adjusting drum adusters that adjust when you apply the brakes while reversing. No, the 810/Maxima wagon drum rear brakes self-adjust when you apply the parking brake.
Parts Availability section: Added link to 1982 FSM page for PS pumps comparison.
Added to Glow Plug System: link to glowplug interchange info.
Updated MY changes for 1982: PDL circuit gets a circuit breaker instead of fusible link; PDL & PW circuit breakers are now round instead of rectangular. [26Mar: Added link to pics of early & late CBs]
Added "lower splash shield" to IP Belt replacement summary.
Corrected Nissan part number for IP belt. (thanks atalamark)
Added links to 1983 oil filter info.
Updated MY changes for 1983: added link for hood ornament pictures
Added to Common Problems: Startup/shutdown heavy shaking: worn motor mounts
Added link to Nissan FAST parts catalogue software install
Updated MY changes for 1983, 1984: Grille, badge, and hood ornament
Updated MY changes for 1983: Dome light switch.
Added "All dash warning lights stay or or come on intermittantly" to "Common Problems"
Updated MY change for 1983: A/C switch differences;
Updated "MY changes" to remove "Under Construction".
Updated "Parts Availability" to include new info about engine torque damper.
Changed "8mm" to "7mm" for the head size of the small bolt on the IP belt cover;
Changed some of the text describing the front crankshaft seal R&R;
Added a paragraph in the IP Belt section, and a list of items to check/replace.
Changed PM switch MY change from '82 to '81 (Thanks, Steve!). Parts Catalog indicates Mar-'83 changeover in Wagons but Jul-'81 changeover in Sedans. The Sedans date is more likely correct for both.
Added "GP" and "GPC" to Acronyms section.
Moved in MY section, GPC change from kick panel to underseat in '82, not '83.
Added in MY section, '83 front pass. door PW switch on door.
Added Common Problems->Door Cracking;
Fixed several typos;
Added part nos. for torque damper, PS hose;
Consolidated the fix info for the "break in wire harness" repair, and fixed links.
Added "Model Year Changes" section;
Added thumbnails to "Intake Manifold Grunge" section, instead of links only.
Fixed typo "dufing" for "during" (Thanks, glenlloyd!)
Added TOC to top of page;
Moved some items around into different categories;
Added "fuel filter" placeholder;
Added "acronyms" section;
Added link to FSM errors thread;
Added "parts catalogue" info;
Updated PS pump info in "Parts Availability->PS Hose" section;
Added "Brakes" and "Brakes->Wagon rear brakes" section;
Added "Common problems" section.
Added oil filter for 1983 (different from 81-82) (Thanks, goglio704 !).
Fixed two bad links (Wix Filters lookup (site is still dead right now, but link is fixed); NAPA valve cover gasket). Thanks, Kaufmann!
To the "transmissions" section, added a link to the FS5W71 5-spd trans post in the SD forum.
Added a note about the difference in the FSMs about the availability of the lockup torque converter in the diesel in 1981 (Diesel Supplement says it has it, the gasser manual says all Maximas get the non-lockup).
Added TRANSMISSION section.
Added "Maintenance->Injection Timing" section, fixed two generic typos.
Fixed links to pictures of intake manifold grunge (Thanks, Carimbo!)